A New Summer Outfit

This outfit is one of those that make me smile while wearing it. I’ve been wanting to make the skirt for a long time and in fact, both the pattern and fabric have been waiting for quite some time in my stash. The blouse pattern was a more recent purchase but, I’ve been keeping an eye for a pattern in this style for some time and in my opinion the patterns are a good match.

Starting with the blouse. I used a Butterick vintage pattern, 5580, that unfortunately does not mention the year it was released, although my guess is around the 50’s, both because of the style and for not being printed. Well, the instructions are printed but the pattern pieces are already cut and have different sizes perforations and notches to guide. It took me a bit to get used to it.

As usual in vintage patterns, this one only had one size available, size 14, 32” bust and that’s exactly what I made. I choose option A, without changes at all.

IMG_8326

The instructions suggest to cut the fabric in bias and that is what I have done. As it is a quite fitted blouse it helps the way it is cut. The way it fits is one of the things that made me choose this pattern and to achieve the fit it also has 10 darts. Two diagonals in the chest area and the remaining 8 at the waist, 4 in the front and 4 in the back.

IMG_8309

IMG_8310

The waist darts are a little unusual to me and I don’t think I’ve ever made a blouse with such kind of darts. I did try to find how this kind of darts are called but failed. If you happen to know it, please do share 😊

The blouse has no buttons and to help with the dress/undress it has a side zipper (I used an invisible one). The armhole is finished with bias binding and to add a bit of colour, I used a self-made bias using a floral fabric. I do adore to add small details even if it is in the garment’s inside.

One of the things I like particularly in this version is the collar although version B also looks really nice… might have to make another version sometime. In order to keep everything in place, I handstitched the collar facing at the neck and shoulder.

IMG_8306

The fabric used is a shirting fabric from Mike Tecidos and it worked as expected but a fabric with some drape must work lovely as well.

To go with the blouse, I also made a skirt that was in my “to do list” for such a long time. The Chardon skirt by Deer and Doe.

IMG_8297

I made version A in size 36, based on my waist and hip measurements, using a linen/cotton fabric bought some three years ago and although the photos seem to indicate otherwise, I did iron it.

IMG_8301

My only change was to shorten the skirt 5 centimetres. The pattern is lovely and I have intension to make more but I intend to use an invisible zipper next time, instead of a regular one. That would be my only change and that is just a matter of preference.

IMG_8287

Although it has a few inverted box pleats, it is a fast project and the result is (as my girls like to say) so satisfying. Let’s be honest, it is a pretty skirt and it has pockets.

IMG_8292

The instructions recommend finishing the hem with bias binding and that is what I’ve done. This time I did not made the bias, instead I used a bought one that have a satin finishing and a very similar colour but some stripes that make a subtle contrast. I’m happy with the result and used it as well in the facing.

 

This is turning out to be a long post… Summarizing, I am really happy with how both patterns turned out and how well they worked together. I have intention to use them again.


Girls’ Easter Dresses

Easter is always a good reason to make new dresses for girls, don’t you agree? To be honest this year it was actually a necessity for F as she outgrown almost everything she owned! But as I had enough fabric, I didn’t want to leave M without a new dress as well (nothing to do with my “necessity” to see my daughters matching).

IMG_7839

I had a couple of patterns, bought some time ago already, that I never had the opportunity to make and really wanted to, before the girls outgrow them. Patterns and fabrics were chosen with the girls as their approval is essential at this age if I want the clothes to be used. Pre-teen these days…

Snapseed (1)

For F we decided to make a vintage Simplicity pattern (bought from eBay) that dated from 1968, in view 1, size 8. The dress is actually quite simple the interest of it being the front tucks and for this view, I also particularly like the sleeves.

IMG_7847IMG_7854

As usual in vintage patterns, there was only one size available so, I did not mix different sizes as I usually do nonetheless, the fit turned out good, no adjustments were needed. A straight size 8 and didn’t even changed the hem.

IMG_7853

The only thing F asked was not to use lace at the neckline. I also used an invisible zipper instead of a regular one (as suggested) and I think it turned out adorable. I might have to redo the sleeves hem by hand as the inside doesn’t look brilliant, but for Easter Sunday I did not have the time and had to go as it is.

IMG_7851

For M I also used a pattern that have been waiting for a long time to be used, the Mary De from The Children’s Corner Patterns. This pattern has been revised recently but I own the previous version in sizes 7 and 8.

IMG_7829

The original is a smocked dress/pinafore but, as I never learned how to smock, I made a few changes. First, I used the lining front pattern piece to cut the front piece, in order to eliminate the smocked part. Second, I used the back-skirt pattern piece and cut the fabric on fold to make the front skirt. Third, I took 4 ½ inches from the skirt length.

IMG_7830

Now, I made a mistake and cut a size (or two) too big. As you can see in the photos, the pinafore is quite large on M. She still played, had an egg hunt and jumped on the trampoline without complain but, it would look better if I had cut a size 7 instead of size 8. I intended to cut a size 7 but, I was running out of time and did not pay attention as I should and instead, I’ve cut a size 8 as I usually do for her. Good thing it is big and not small! She will grow and it will fit, eventually…

I really like the back of this pattern and that it can be used as a dress on its own or as a pinafore with a blouse underneath. Also, that it’s a simple design as M prefers but with some interest.

IMG_7834

The fabric used is a light twill bought at a stock out from a Portuguese children’s clothes company by some of my thoughtful Portuguese sewing friends. For the pinafore bodice lining, I used a cotton voile from my stash.

IMG_7880

Now it’s time to sew for the girls’ summer wardrobe 😊