Puffy sleeves for Summer!

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Hello,

Hope you are all well.

It appears that this year I have not been as active in my sewing room as I would like to. I will blame it on Winter! However, lately I have been making plans for my next sewing projects and am starting to feel like sewing again. So, at the moment I have plans, plenty of them! Will see how many come to life. The old struggle is real, so many plans, so little time…

Anyway, I started as I meant to go and manage to finish a blouse. Also, at the moment I am writing this post, I have another one nearly finished! First thing first and I will talk (write?) about the one that is finished already. 😊

I suppose that if you have been following around for a while, you will have noticed that I do adore a beautiful sleeve. A bit of volume, or a ruffle, or both, why not? A couple of years ago I got the Anthea Blouse and Dress by Anna Allen Patterns. I found the sleeves irresistible and made a dress however, my intention was also to make the blouse version. It finally happened!

Aren’t the sleeves so pretty?

I did however, make some changes to the original. On the Anna Allen Patterns blog, you can find a hack suggestion that I quite liked and decided to make it myself.

I started by printing my usual size, a 0 and taking a bit at the front, back and shoulders, using the template provided. As for the sleeve, I used the shorter version and cut the bottom bit of the pattern piece.

I did make some changes to the construction, especially for the button placket and neckline, as I prefer the finishings a bit different. Personal preferences only. Also, instead of using shirring method for the sleeve, I created an elastic casing using bias binding, and used elastic.

I do like how this blouse tuned out (quite a lot!) however, next time I will make a couple of things differently.

First, I will not scoop as much, especially at the shoulders. I think it is a bit too much as it is. I am still going to wear this one and I do feel comfortable doing so, just think it will look better. Again, it is just a matter of personal preference however, what would be the fun of sewing if we couldn’t make it as perfect as possible for us, right?

Second, I will add a bit more length to the ruffle. I made it one and a half times the neckline and it works well nonetheless, it could do with a bit more volume.

Now, the fabric. I used a Liberty Cotton Lawn that has been in my stash for far too long. So long that I don’t remember anymore where I got it from or how this print is called (if anyone knows, please share with me)! Regardless, I like it very much and it was about time I make something with it.

In short, it is a lovely blouse and I very much like it. It was a quick and easy project. Perfect for Summer! 😊

Have a lovely week!

Maria x

Delta Top/Dress for the girls

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Hello,

Hope you are all well.

Somehow the girls are back in school and I am trying to get into the new season. I do like Autumn very much indeed however, I have the feeling Summer went by too fast and I am not ready to say goodbye just yet.

Before going on holiday, I still managed to make a couple of things for the girls to wear so, while I am already sewing a dress for Autumn, I want to share those Summer makes before it is too late.

My daughters are 13 years old at the moment and I must confess that it has not been an easy task to find age and style appropriate clothes or patterns. Children’s clothes are not quite their style anymore and grown-up ones are a bit too much or doesn’t even fit. For that reason, I was very pleased when Style Arc released a line especially for teens.

I really like the style! Fabric and pattern worked very well together.

I was very pleased when Style Arc started making patterns for 8 to 16 years old and the first one we tried was the Delta Teens Top/Dress. As the name correctly points out, there is a top and a dress option, the sleeve can be short or 3/4, with or without elastic.

M opted for the cropped top version, with short sleeves (with elastic). She is a size 8 for all measurements except for height and I made a size 10 as I thought she could grow into it and as it has elastics anyway it should be fine. I think it worked out well.

I adjusted the neckline elastic to be used as off shoulder nonetheless, it can be used on the shoulders as well.

As for the fabric, I used a light weight dobby (plumetis) cotton from Minerva that we both quite like. It worked very well for this project and was perfect for the warm summer weather.

Good thing about this pattern is that with the option it is easy to please different styles and F does have a very different style from her sister! She also asked me to make her something, however, she preferred the dress version, again with a short sleeve but no elastic for her.

Her measurements put her in a size 12 except for height, which is a size 14. For the same reason as for M, I opted for the 14. She has some room to grow but the elastic makes the dress perfectly wearable.

I used a similar fabric, light weight dobby (plumetis) cotton that I had in my stash for a few years already. It was about time I put it to good use!

With one single pattern we got two different outfits to fit two different styles. The girls were involved on the process and chose the pattern/options and the fabrics as I wanted to make sure it was made to their personal taste.

I still made the girls a couple more garments but I will share those another time.

Happy sewing!

Maria x

Pink dress!

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Hello,

Hope you are all well.

In case you did not know, Minerva recently released a new exclusive fabric range and it is beautiful and colourful!

I got the chance to try it and it did not disappoint. You can read all about what I made with it here.

The colours and drape are amazing!

It really is a nice viscose fabric!

How pretty is this neckline detail!

Hope you like it as much as I do. 🙂

Have a lovely week.

Maria x

Another top for M

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Hello,

Hope you are well.

Guess what? I made another top for M!

It is so pretty and we are both quite happy about how it turned out. 🙂

I used a gingham cotton from Minerva and you can read all about it here.

Also, I have used an adult pattern to make clothes for M! It is a bittersweet moment…

The sleeve! I said it was a pretty top!

Hope you like it! We certainly do!

Happy sewing!

Maria x

Brené camisole

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Hello,

Hope you are all well and enjoying Summer (in case you are in North hemisphere).

Sunny weather hasn’t been very reliable this year but, that did not keep me from sewing a couple of summer tops. Although it might seem a bit useless, having in mind that I live in the UK, the truth is, I do wear cami tops quite a lot as they are perfect under a cardigan or blazer.

A couple of months ago I tried the Pema pattern from Ose Patterns and liked it so much that I wanted to try other patterns and this time I bought the Brené Camisole and will be sharing with you the versions I made.

I found the pattern has some lovely details as it is but, it is also a great starting point to make it your own. As the Pema Dress, I found the pattern to be very well drafted and the instructions clear and detailed, with links to helpful videos. Also, it includes detailed and helpful instruction for size adjustments.

For the first version I made a straight size 34 based on my bust and waist measurements, with no alterations. In this case, I used a cotton lawn that was part of my stash for some time now (don’t even remember where I got it!) and a shirting cotton fabric for the lapel.

As per the instructions, I interfaced the facings, straps and lapel. The straps, I only interfaced half and I think it worked well. I find the lapel such a cute detail and it works great with a contrasting fabric or using the same. Also, the buttons can add a lovely detail. In this case, I only used one, instead of the three suggested.

In my opinion, the fabric worked really well for this pattern and I am so happy with the fit. The way it is designed makes it fit without being tight and the straps are perfect to cover bra straps.

For my second version I decided to experiment a bit. I made the same size, 34, without alterations but this time I added broderie anglaise lace to the straps (and absolutely love it) and omitted the lapel as I wanted the straps to stand out, keeping the rest simple.

As for the fabric, I used a Liberty quilting cotton. It is a wonderful quality and a bit different from other quilting cottons I’ve previously used. Even so, I think a lighter cotton or a fabric with more drape works better for this pattern. Nonetheless, I like it a lot!

  • This pattern is perfect to add some details and make it your own!

This is a perfect pattern for someone that is a beginner as there is no closures and to use fabric leftovers.

I am genuinely happy with the fit and definitely it is a pattern that I will be making again and that I recommend.

Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading!

Maria x

New shirt!

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Hello,

Hope you are all well.

I made a new shirt for myself using an absolutely wonderful fabric.

It is a lovely shirt with pretty details 🙂

You can read all about it here!

I told you it has pretty details!

Hope you like it as much as I do.

Have a lovely week!

Maria x

Another Summer Dress and Pretty Sleeves

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Hello, hope you are all having a lovely summer.

I have not been sewing much but still have plans to make a few more dresses that I hope will work well for early Autumn paired with a cardigan or a blazer.

The dress I will be sharing today was planned a few months ago, before the pandemic hit us all. At one point I almost did not make it but, in the end, I am glad I did. Also, paired with a blazer, I believe it will work wonderfully when the weather starts to cool down.

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The pattern is theMcCall’s Sasha or M8036 in size 8 for bust and graded to size 10 at the waist/hip. This is a normal adjustment that I have to make for most of my makes. It is just one size however, it does make all difference and it looks so much better. Even more important, it feels so much better.

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This pattern offers three skirt options, two sleeves and three closure options. I made version B with A/C sleeves. The changes I made were minimal if we can even call it changes. I used, a hook and eye for the inside closure instead of two ribbons because I didn’t want to be noticeable from the outside (I was afraid the ribbons would add some volume) and I made the hem slightly shorter than mentioned in the instructions, just out of personal preference.

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I like Wrap Dresses as I think it suits my body type well and I like statement sleeves so, for that reason, this dress went right to my “I have to make it” list. I also quite like version C with option B sleeves… I guess another version should be considered.

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I really like how this pattern works with different fabrics and I have seen some really pretty versions. However, I wanted the pattern details to stand out so I chose a plain fabric with some structure. The fabric is linen from The Fabric Store in Duck Egg colour and I really adore this shade. The linen worked quite well with the pattern and I truly like how it turned out.

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Wish you all a wonderful weekend.

Maria x

A New Summer Dress

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Hello,

We are one week away from starting our School Summer Holidays and even if this year we are not going anywhere, sadly, it will be nice to put an end to this very unusual school year and get some rest. A few days of dolce far niente will certainly be very appreciated by the girls.

Even if at the moment I am writing this post, it is raining and a bit cold, I do hope we will get a few lovely and warm summer days. With that in mind, I made a dress that says Summer when you look at it.

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I had this idea in mind but not quite the exact pattern for it. Usually I am not very adventurous with changing patterns however, this was such an easy modification that even I could make it.

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A few months ago, I made a dress (I will share more about it another time) using a Butterick pattern, B4443, and I really liked the fit. Now, that pattern offers different bodice options and one of those options was (almost) what I had in mind.

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So, I started with the bodice and added shoulder straps. I really like how it looks without straps however, I also know I will feel a lot more comfortable with the straps and lately comfort is a priority. In fact, the straps ended up being one of my favourite things about this dress as I added broderie anglaise to them. Don’t those straps look adorable and summery?

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The instructions say to interface the bodice but, I decided not to do it. If I was to make it strapless, I would have to add some structure to it but, having straps to help support I thought the interfacing would be pointless. I do not regret this decision. Also, the bodice is already lined.

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When I started making the dress, I was not sure about the skirt. So, I made the bodice first to see how it would look before deciding. An A-line skirt did not seem quite right, a circle skirt might have worked out well but, I believe the gathered skirt fitted better this style and that is what I choose in the end. I like it!

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The fabric is a poplin that I bought a couple of years ago, at Minerva, with another project in mind… Well, you all know how the story goes. I am glad I finally put this fabric to a good use.

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I am really happy with how this dress turned out and I can picture myself in a picnic, in the fields, wearing it.

 

Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x

A Vintage Blouse with Puffy Sleeves

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Hello,

I don’t know about you but lately, I haven’t been feeling like sewing much. Hopefully, my mood will change soon.

Nonetheless, I really wanted to share this blouse I made a few weeks ago, as not only I really like how it turned out but, also found it quite interesting to make.

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The pattern is a vintage one, Style 4752, from 1974, found on eBay. I was looking for a pattern similar to this one when I come across this one and really liked it. My initial idea was a peter pan collar and I first thought about changing the pattern however, the bow won in the end and I do not regret it. I can always make another version, right?

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Besides the short sleeve version, this pattern also includes a long sleeve option and a skirt with two lengths, available in size 10. Actually, my husband said this blouse would look better with a skirt so, I might have to make one…

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I did not make any changes or adjustments to the pattern and I absolutely love the fit. The French dart improves the fit so much! I didn’t quite finish it how it is mentioned in the Complete Guide to Sewing (my most used sewing book) and “had to” finish with the overlocker. How do you finish French darts?

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This was my first time making a bow tie collar and the instructions did not mentioned interfacing the standing part, so I didn’t. However, I now think I should have. Next time I will know! That is the beauty of sewing, there is always something new to learn.

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The fabric used is a lightweight dobby cotton from Ratucos, bought a couple of years ago. I wanted the pattern to “shine” and, for that reason, a plain fabric would, in my opinion, work better. I like how it turned out.

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Of course, my favourite feature is the sleeve. No surprise here! I really like how puffy it is. The bow tie also looks cute and I am happy I decide not to change it.

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Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x

The Curcuma Blouse

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Hello,

 

Hope you are all well and safe.

As you might have realised already, I do like patterns with nice details and for that reason, I was very happy to try Tilia Patterns’ new release, The Curcuma Blouse and Dress.

I have followed and admired Eveline’s work for quite some time and was really pleased when she announced she would be starting her own patterns company. Her first pattern is the Curcuma Blouse and Dress and it is a lovely one.

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The pattern is available in sizes 34 to 54 as a blouse or dress, with short or long sleeves. The instructions are very clear, include fit adjustments and a tutorial with two options for the shirring technique.

This was the first time I ever used the shirring technique. To be honest, I was a bit afraid I would ruin everything and that, as soon as I finished sewing the elastic would get loose. Silly me! The technique is actually simple and the instructions are a good guide. I must say I also watched a video tutorial because I wanted to see how it was made in a similar sewing machine. Luckily, I did not need to change the bobbin tension and using a long stitch length was all I needed.

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As you can see, I opted for the blouse version with short sleeves. I made a size 34 and shortened it 8 centimetres because the pattern was designed for a height of 168 cm and I am only 157cm. Apart of that minor adjustment I did not made any more changes.

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I do like how chic and stylish this pattern is but, at the same time, so comfortable to wear. I don’t think it is very visible as the fabric print is busy but the sleeves are raglan. Also, the blouse has a slit back opening (not visible in the photo unfortunately) that closes with a button.

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Regarding the fabric, I used a Liberty double gauze that I got last year from Stragier, it is so beautiful and soft. Double gauze is one of the recommended fabrics and it worked really well.

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If you know me, even if only a bit, you must have guessed that my favourite part from this pattern is the collar and the sleeve. Such lovely details! I will need a long sleeve version of this blouse for autumn.

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I followed the instructions and the construction went smoothly, the fit is good and I am genuinely happy with this blouse.

The pattern was kindly gifted to me and I was not asked for a blog post however, my opinion is completely honest and I absolutely adore this blouse. 😊

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Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x