Steven Trousers

Hope you are all well.

Today I have something a bit different to share with you. I have been wanting to try new things and challenge myself a bit. There are two things I haven’t really tried to make as I found those a little scary and I am not sure I can make it look good and with a professional finishing. Maybe I should say I was scared…

Those two things are trousers and coats/blazers. The coat/blazer I will have to make another time but I just made a pair of trousers that actually look amazing inside and out!!

I have previously shared some makes of mine using Ose Patterns, a French designer that I truly like, not only for the very well drafted patterns and great instructions, the lovely encouragement words in the patterns but also for the person behind the brand, Monty, that is really a lovely lady and I know, puts a lot of work into her patterns to make them the best possible.

Today Ose Patterns are releasing a new pattern, the Steven Trousers and I had the opportunity to try the pattern. I will tell you all about it!

The Steven Trousers are high-waisted, have side slant pockets and all the details like a zipper fly and internal button and hook and bar closure.

The pattern is available from sizes 34 (UK 6) to 48 (UK 20) and are drafted for a height of 168cm. I find this last detail extremely useful as I almost always need to shorten and I know, without having to guess how much to reduce in height. Also, as usual in Ose Patterns, there are detailed and very useful instructions in case adjustments are needed.

I don’t often make a muslin however, in this case I did and the instruction also include all the steps for a useful muslin! To start with I made a size 34 (UK 6) at the waist and size 36 (UK 8) at the hip but after trying the muslin took a bit at the hip.

As for the fabric, I used a gabardine that I had in my stash for a long time and the fabric worked well but I really want to make another pair in corduroy for the colder months or maybe a twill a bit heavier.

Now, as you can see from the photos, I am quite happy with the fit. I just love how well the trousers fit at the waist and hip but are loose at in the legs. So comfortable! However, as much as I love the trousers outside, the inside makes me put a smile each time…

You see, the detail and care that goes into it… The seams are finished with bias all looks so neat. Of course, you can use other methods but I adore a bit of a flowery bias binding against a plain fabric. Business outside and fun inside! The fabric used for the lining is a very soft cotton and for the bias biding I used Liberty Cotton Tana Lawn.

Even the pockets have French seams!

I think that for a first pair of trousers these turned out pretty good. I am glad I challenged myself. If, like me, you are struggling to make trousers, there is also a video that is really helpful so, fear not, go for it!

Note: The pattern was gifted for me to try but the comments are my own and genuinely honest.

Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading!

Maria x


Brené camisole

Hello,

Hope you are all well and enjoying Summer (in case you are in North hemisphere).

Sunny weather hasn’t been very reliable this year but, that did not keep me from sewing a couple of summer tops. Although it might seem a bit useless, having in mind that I live in the UK, the truth is, I do wear cami tops quite a lot as they are perfect under a cardigan or blazer.

A couple of months ago I tried the Pema pattern from Ose Patterns and liked it so much that I wanted to try other patterns and this time I bought the Brené Camisole and will be sharing with you the versions I made.

I found the pattern has some lovely details as it is but, it is also a great starting point to make it your own. As the Pema Dress, I found the pattern to be very well drafted and the instructions clear and detailed, with links to helpful videos. Also, it includes detailed and helpful instruction for size adjustments.

For the first version I made a straight size 34 based on my bust and waist measurements, with no alterations. In this case, I used a cotton lawn that was part of my stash for some time now (don’t even remember where I got it!) and a shirting cotton fabric for the lapel.

As per the instructions, I interfaced the facings, straps and lapel. The straps, I only interfaced half and I think it worked well. I find the lapel such a cute detail and it works great with a contrasting fabric or using the same. Also, the buttons can add a lovely detail. In this case, I only used one, instead of the three suggested.

In my opinion, the fabric worked really well for this pattern and I am so happy with the fit. The way it is designed makes it fit without being tight and the straps are perfect to cover bra straps.

For my second version I decided to experiment a bit. I made the same size, 34, without alterations but this time I added broderie anglaise lace to the straps (and absolutely love it) and omitted the lapel as I wanted the straps to stand out, keeping the rest simple.

As for the fabric, I used a Liberty quilting cotton. It is a wonderful quality and a bit different from other quilting cottons I’ve previously used. Even so, I think a lighter cotton or a fabric with more drape works better for this pattern. Nonetheless, I like it a lot!

This is a perfect pattern for someone that is a beginner as there is no closures and to use fabric leftovers.

I am genuinely happy with the fit and definitely it is a pattern that I will be making again and that I recommend.

Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading!

Maria x


The Pema dress

Hello,

Hope you are all well.

I am here today sharing a dress from Ose Patterns. A new, to me, French designer. I am, a confessed French style admirer and come across Ose Patterns a few months ago. Since then, I have been following their account on Instagram and wanting to try their patterns as I really like the style.

For that reason, when Monty, the lovely lady behind Ose Patterns, asked if I would like to try one of their patterns, I haven’t hesitated. So, yes, the pattern was gifted to me but, my opinion is sincere.

As it was a new designer to me, I did not know what to expect in relation to drafting, construction techniques or instructions and that was the reason why I haven’t tried the patterns before. As I don’t have much sewing time at the moment, I don’t want to waste “me precious” time with something that might not come out as I expected. This is a legitimate concern but, in that case, unnecessary as everything turned out for the best. Even better than expected to be honest.

I don’t like to generalise and that is a rule I like to apply in life however, French designers are not known for detailed instruction. Nonetheless, that is not the case with Ose Patterns. Not only the instructions are very clear but, there are also links to helpful videos. The instructions are actually very thoughtful, with encouragement words for those starting (or not), a checklist before you start and main steps at a glance.

The Pema Dress is available in UK sizes 6 to 18 (EU 34 to 46 / USA 2 to 14), designed for 168cm height (I always find this piece of information extremely helpful) and include instructions if, like me, you need to alter the pattern.

I made, according to my measurements, a size 34 for bust and waist, size 36 at the hips and the fit turned out great. The only modification I made, was shortening 10 inches (25 centimetres) from the skirt length, based on my height and personal taste.

The pattern has two options, View A is sleeveless and View B has ¾ sleeves and that is the option I made. Both versions are very beautiful to be honest and depending on the fabric you use, this pattern can be very versatile.

Now, about the fabric. I used a light/medium weight viscose from Rainbow fabrics and it turned out lovely, if I might say so 😊 although I must say, I had to debate with myself between the viscose or a plain fabric that would made the lovely details stand out (I might make a second version). The dress has beautiful shoulders, waist and front skirt pleats, as well as darts that make it drape beautifully. Even better, the front skirt pleats are only on the right side (the one at the front) so that it doesn’t add volume to our tummy. Cleaver, right? No one wants extra volume in that area!

My fabric choice, although lovely, does not showcase the beauty of the pleats in this pattern how it deserves!

If you want to make this dress (and I would advise you to) do interface as recommended and if, like me, you opt for a viscose, then I recommend stretch interfacing. It is very light, the dress doesn’t lose its shape and fluidity however, it does make a difference.

In short (and this is my honest opinion), this project went smoothly, everything matched perfectly, the instructions were clear and I had no issues whatsoever while making this dress.

If the only thing putting you off is the language, fear not, Ose Patterns now have an English website and the patterns are all available in English.

Hope you liked this dress as much as I do and thank you for reading!

Maria x