The Curcuma Blouse

2 Comments June 18, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well and safe.

As you might have realised already, I do like patterns with nice details and for that reason, I was very happy to try Tilia Patterns’ new release, The Curcuma Blouse and Dress.

I have followed and admired Eveline’s work for quite some time and was really pleased when she announced she would be starting her own patterns company. Her first pattern is the Curcuma Blouse and Dress and it is a lovely one.

The pattern is available in sizes 34 to 54 as a blouse or dress, with short or long sleeves. The instructions are very clear, include fit adjustments and a tutorial with two options for the shirring technique.

This was the first time I ever used the shirring technique. To be honest, I was a bit afraid I would ruin everything and that, as soon as I finished sewing the elastic would get loose. Silly me! The technique is actually simple and the instructions are a good guide. I must say I also watched a video tutorial because I wanted to see how it was made in a similar sewing machine. Luckily, I did not need to change the bobbin tension and using a long stitch length was all I needed.

As you can see, I opted for the blouse version with short sleeves. I made a size 34 and shortened it 8 centimetres because the pattern was designed for a height of 168 cm and I am only 157cm. Apart of that minor adjustment I did not made any more changes.

I do like how chic and stylish this pattern is but, at the same time, so comfortable to wear. I don’t think it is very visible as the fabric print is busy but the sleeves are raglan. Also, the blouse has a slit back opening (not visible in the photo unfortunately) that closes with a button.

Regarding the fabric, I used a Liberty double gauze that I got last year from Stragier, it is so beautiful and soft. Double gauze is one of the recommended fabrics and it worked really well.

If you know me, even if only a bit, you must have guessed that my favourite part from this pattern is the collar and the sleeve. Such lovely details! I will need a long sleeve version of this blouse for autumn.

I followed the instructions and the construction went smoothly, the fit is good and I am genuinely happy with this blouse.

The pattern was kindly gifted to me and I was not asked for a blog post however, my opinion is completely honest and I absolutely adore this blouse. 😊

Have a lovely weekend.

Maria x

Golden Dress

Leave a comment June 3, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

I don’t know about you but, here in the UK the weather has been wonderful lately and making us dream of Summer holidays. I am not having high hopes regarding this Summer holiday however, that is not keeping me from making a few garments.

Yesterday, Project Run & Play released a pattern collection ready for Summer, the Project Watercolour Beach. This collection is a set of 10 patterns from different designers and Suco by Susana is one of them.

From what I could see, the collection has some great patterns however, I will only talk about the Golden Dress, from Suco by Susana, because that was the one I tested.

The Golden Dress is available from size 12 moths to 14 years old and is an easy one to make, easy to wear dress. It does not have buttons, zippers or other closures and that makes it perfect to wear on the beach, pool… but also looks great as dress for everyday wear. Just play around with different fabrics to obtain different styles.

I made a size 10 for F, without any changes, fits her perfectly and is very comfortable. The elastic waist makes it fitted but comfortable.

Despite having easy construction, this dress has really good finishing and some lovely details. To start with, it has pockets. You will have to trust me on this one as I forgot to take photos of the pockets but, it is there. The waist tie also adds some cute detail and is great if you want to use a contrasting fabric for a pop of colour.

Also, the neckline facing not only make a good finishing but also look really nice, even if not visible. As you know I like garments with pretty insides.

As for the fabric, it is recommended light-weight fabrics with good drape. I used a Robert Kaufmann Chambray bought 5 years ago(!) that I thought was perfect as it also matches the pattern collection theme. It worked pretty well in my opinion. As contrast, for the tie and facing, I used a Liberty Tana Lawn.

Overall, I found the pattern really cute and practical, perfect for everyday wear. As usual with Suco by Susana patterns, the fit is good, the instructions clear and with good constructions techniques.

Susana, also has another pattern as part of the collection, the Lemon Tee Pattern.

Now, during the release week the patterns will have 20% discount and the collection bundle with over 30% discount.

Have a good week.

Maria x

A Vintage Summer Dress for F

Leave a comment May 25, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

A little unexpectedly, but certainly happy for it, we are having lovely warm weather, that made me want to sew more for summer. My favourite kind of sewing after all.

I don’t think I will be making the girls a lot of clothes nonetheless, I would like to make them a couple of things and when I asked F what she would like me to make her, she said a shirtdress. She really adored the one I made her, a few years ago so, she asked for a new one.

I had a vintage pattern in my stash however, it was a size 12. A little too big for the moment. So, I had a look on ebay and there it was, the very same pattern in size 10. The pattern is Simplicity 5178 from 1972.

It was not the first time I made F a Simplicity vintage pattern and I really like how it fits her.

The pattern offers three different skirt options and two sleeve options. We went for the short sleeve with gathered skirt and fabric belt. The pattern also includes pockets but I skipped those.

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In true vintage style, the skirt is on the short side. I absolutely adore the vintage skirts but, I want the dress to last all summer so, I made a smaller hem in an attempt to make this dress last a bit more.

About the pattern itself, I am pleased with the fit. The dress has darts at the waistline (front and back) and at the shoulders (back) and that does make a difference.

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The instructions were easy to follow and I had no issues with that part. What I was not so pleased with, was how the skirt front opening turned out. My fault entirely and I will try to press it better next time she wears it.

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The fabric I used is a cotton poplin, from Stragier, in her favourite colour, yellow. To make some contrast, I used Liberty Mitsi cotton lawn for the belt and I couldn’t resit and also made her hair bows to match, using the Clara Bows pattern from Jilly Atlanta.

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Overall, I am really pleased with the dress and so is F. I find it to be age appropriate and with a good fit.

Sewing for the girls age group is a bit challenging but, it is fun to see how different is their taste for clothes.

Have a lovely week.

Maria x

Something a little bit different

Leave a comment May 6, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

It has been a while since I last posted here and how much things have changed around here!

Hope you are managing well and that this situation is not having a significant impact in your life.

I have been sewing a little, not much as I am finding it a bit hard to focus and today, I am here to share something a little bit different from my usual projects but, adorable nonetheless.

I have made several of Jilly Atlanta patterns and some of them several times. Jilly Atlanta’s patterns are classic, lovely and my girls really like to wear the clothes I make them using the patterns. This time however, Jilly is releasing a hair bows pattern! The Clara Bows.

There are five different bows in different sizes and can be used as headband, with a hairclip or bobble, to suit all hair styles and ages.

I just couldn’t stop after making one and got a bit carried away. Here are a few bows I have made.

These are bow #3 using gingham cotton to match the pinafore 😊

I used hair bobbles for these.

Made the option #4 using different fabrics, like broderie anglaise and Liberty Tana Lawn. So sweet!

These are all with alligator hairclips except the broderie anglaise ones (I made two). For these I made one with hair bobble and other with hairclip.

For the bow option #5, used swiss cotton dot and adore the vintage look!

This one is also with hairclip.

For a more relaxed look, made the option #7 in chambray and hair bobble.

Finally, made the option #9 using a lightweight linen and used hairclip.

As usual, the pattern includes clear and detailed instructions and even if, like me, this is not your usual project, you can achieve lovely bows to match all those pretty dresses. Also, I think option #4 and 5 works well for grown-ups as well.

This is the perfect project to use scraps or for children to learn sewing. Plus, it is free if you join Jilly Atlanta Facebook Group. 😊 Yes, that is correct, it is free!

Go on, join the group if you haven’t yet and have fun.

Maria x

The Madrid Dress Tour

Leave a comment June 20, 2019 apinchofsewing

Today is my turn to share my version of the Madrid Dress! The Tour started last Monday, 17^th June and goes until Friday, 28^th. There have been some lovely versions and I am sure there will be plenty more and loads of inspiration. So, please, make sure you check it on IG, it is really worth it!

The Madrid Dress is Coffee and Thread’s latest pattern and is a Bohemian inspired faux wrap dress, packed with options that will make it wearable throughout the year, as a dress or a tunic.

The pattern is available from sizes 2 to 20 and based on my chest and waist measurements I made a size 2. Now, my hips measurements place me between size 2 and 4 but, as it isn’t a fitted dress in this area, I did not make any changes and went with a straight size 2.

Contrary to my usual self, I did some changes to the original pattern. First, I made it sleeveless. I have omitted the sleeves and finished with bias binding. I did consider lining the bodice but, because it is a faux wrap it wouldn’t work as I intended and abandoned the idea. I did make a toile but at the time it didn’t seemed necessary to take a bit at the shoulder although now I think it would have been better… Next time I know!

The second change I made was not exactly a change, I just added a ruffle to the neckline and I absolutely love it. 😊 The dress is lovely as it is but, I’ve seen a few ready to wear garments with that kind of ruffle and really wanted to make it.

I did not make any changes to the skirt and went for a midi length. I must thank Olga for mentioning in the instructions, that this pattern was drafted for women 160-172 centimetres height. Not my case, I am smaller, but in this case, decided not change anything to start with and see how it looked. Because the second tier is a rectangle, if it was necessary, I would take some length at the end. I ended up liking how it looked and not changing anything.

There is also an optional tie, that I made as I couldn’t resist a bow. I already have another version planned (just waiting for the fabric to arrive) and that one will not have the tie but, I am considering taking a couple of centimetres at the waist to make it a bit more fitted.

The fabric I used is Liberty Tana Lawn Edenham from Alice Caroline. I do adore this print and think it worked really well for this dress. Now we just need proper summer weather in the UK for me to wear it. Honestly, my boots are out again and the heating is on… I do need some sun!

I do have happy news for you! Olga offering 25% off any of her patterns during the tour, with code “madridtour” 😊 If you’re wanting to try one (or several) of her patterns, now it is a good time to get it. I’ve made quite a few of her patterns and totally recommend.

April Dress for F

2 Comments June 9, 2019 apinchofsewing

As I mentioned in previous posts, F grew out of most of her summer clothes and I’ve been trying to build her a new summer wardrobe for this year. I always like the girls to have in their wardrobes a couple of classic dresses, having in mind their particular taste and that F still enjoys wearing this style quite a lot, I will make her dresses for as long as she wants me to.

A couple of months ago Children’s Corner Patterns released a new pattern, that I really enjoyed but wasn’t sure the girls would be willing to wear. So, before buying it, I asked if F liked it and F said she did very much 😊. I waited until it was available in the UK, at the House of Smocking, to avoid expensive shipping and tax fees, as it is a paper pattern. Update: The April pattern is now available as a PDF. Such great news!

The April pattern has a sweet vintage design, with side ruffles, an optional smocked insert and also optional sash, that F said she wanted. The bodice is fully lined and it closes at the back with buttons.

F’s measurements are size 7 for chest and waist but her height is a size 10 so, I cut a straight size 7. This pattern has a large hem so I knew I could use it to adjust the height to make it work. She asked me not to make the dress on the short side because she wants it to last and for that reason, I made the hem only 1+1 centimetre. Hope it lasts all summer!

I really liked the neat finishing in this pattern, the way the buttons placket is made and I also handstitched the bodice lining. It’s a lovely dress inside out.

The main fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn in Betsy Mint from Alice Caroline and the lining is cotton voile from my stash. I had made her a dress in the same fabric last year that is being used by M this year.

For those who believe that little girls can’t play freely while wearing this kind of dresses, fear not, they can. 😉

Summer Tops for F

Leave a comment May 14, 2019 apinchofsewing

During Eater break we had some lovely warm weather and that was when we realised that F had barely anything to wear!

As usual in the UK, the good weather did not last long and it gave me the perfect time to sew a few tops for F. I also realised that she is growing out of quite a lot of the girls’ patterns I own, as well as some of my Japanese Sewing Books…

Also, I wanted to use some fabric scraps with less than one metre each, that were left from previous projects and these tops proved to be the perfect project for the effect.

The first top I made was the Eloise Gathered Top by Townmouse Patterns. I’ve made this pattern before, three years ago for M and really like it but, unfortunately, F has now outgrown it. To make it work for her I used the size 8 (her chest measurement) and added 5 centimetres to the length.

The fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn in Betsy Denim from Stragier. This print/colour is so beautiful! I also added a cotton lace trim to the front to add some interest. Not that it needed, as both print and fabric are quite beautiful but, I just couldn’t help it.

The second top is also a repeat from one I’ve made previously for F. It is the “Le Haut à Encolure Volantée” from the book “Nouveaux Intemporels pour Enfants”. I made a size 8 for width with 10 for height.

This time, she chose the fabric and picked a Liberty Tana Lawn Ella and Libby bought ages ago (literally). Such a summery print!

The last top is a really lovely top from the Japanese book “A Sunny Spot”, pattern #10. This is a simple boxy top with just a couple pattern pieces, however, the elastic at the armhole gives it a cute look and adds some interest. I really like how it turned out, simple but cute.

Of course, I had to use F’s favourite print/colour, Liberty Tana Lawn in Capel mustard. I made the size 140 thinking that it would be fairly large on her as she is not 140cm tall but was surprised to find out that it fitted rather well.

All the tops can be easily paired with jeans, shorts or skirts, so that they will have plenty of use and as I made the tops on the large side, fingers crossed, they will last until the end of this summer!

M6696 A Summer Dress

Leave a comment April 22, 2019 apinchofsewing

Hope you’ve had a wonderful Easter break. As I am writing this post, we are enjoying our last few moments of holidays, before returning to school tomorrow. It was a lovely break with some days of wonderful weather that, made the summer dresses come out of the closet… except for F, who has barely nothing to wear as she outgrown almost everything in her closet! Need to fix that ASAP!

In any case today, I am not here to talk about my girls’ clothes. I am here to share with you another summer dress I have made.

I bought this pattern last year but, didn’t managed to actually make it until a couple of months ago as part of one of my projects for Minerva Crafts (I’ll share more about that later) and I liked it so much that I made it again, this time using a different fabric.

The pattern is the McCall’s M6696, made in version B. The sizes for these patterns are slightly different from most Indie designers I’ve worked with but, I used my measurements to choose the size and did not have any issues. So, I made a size 8 graded to 10 at the waist/hip without any further adjustments, except taking 4 centimetres to the skirt height. Also, I omitted the pockets only because I did not have enough fabric.

I found this pattern very complete offering three different cup sizes options, also three sleeves and 2 skirt options, including as well a slip dress to wear under in case it’s needed. I opted for the short sleeve and pleated skirt option. In fact, the pleats are one of my favourite things in this pattern.

The fabric was bought without a specific pattern in mind (that’s why I didn’t had enough for the pockets!) and it’s a recent product from Stragier, Liberty’s Double Gauze. Yes, it is as good as it sounds! It has only a few (but all gorgeous) prints available and I bought the Felicite one.

The fabric worked very well for this project and was nice to work with. When I work with double gauze, I always prefer to use a walking foot. Do you use a regular foot?

I am so pleased with this dress! I really like the details in the pattern, how comfortable it is and, of course, how pretty it looks.

A Not So New Outfit for F

1 Comment December 13, 2018 apinchofsewing

We are now starting to truly feel the Christmas spirit but, before I close my sewing room door to spend family time, I would like to share a few more things I made.

This outfit was made some time ago but, I’m struggling a little to document my makes… This blouse was one of the first things I made F this Autumn and is such a lovely one.

It’s not because I took part in the design of this pattern that I like it and use it a lot. It’s because it was something, I really missed in my daughters’ handmade wardrobe. The Maria blouse was, once more, the pattern used 😉

I made the blouse version (perfect to wear with a pinafore), with long sleeves and ruffled collar (F’s favourite) in size 9 for height with size 7 for width.

The fabric used is Liberty Tana Lawn Ava from Alice Caroline. I found this print and colour so much prettier than I expected, I must say.

The pinafore is the Ainsley Pinafore by Jilly Atlanta. This pattern has a design a little differently than the usual pinafores, as the waistline is raised and I think it actually looks adorable.

I opted for the lower U neckline, elastic back for extra comfort and button straps, made in size 8 for height and 6x for width. That’s why F likes the clothes I make her so much. The fit is much better!

For the main fabric I used a corduroy that was in my stash for some time and for the lining the same fabric as the blouse. How lovely does it look inside? This is another reason for enjoying sewing so much, the pretty inside!

I made a matching (although completely different) outfit for M that I hope to share in the near future. 😊

The Lana Pattern Tour

Leave a comment November 6, 2018 apinchofsewing

In case you’ve missed it, the Lana Pattern Tour started yesterday with some lovely versions and today is my turn to share what I’ve made.

I bought the ladies version when it was released. I’ve made it back then and wear it so much, that when Emi and Olga contacted me to know if I wanted to take part in the tour, I immediately said yes.

M “needed” a new tee for the school disco, so I asked her how she felt about the newly released girls’ version and she willingly said yes!

The pattern is available from size 12 months to 14 years old and has two dress options besides the tee. I made a size 7 for M without any changes and she absolutely loved it. In fact, I got the best compliment from her. She said that when this one doesn’t fit anymore, she wants another one just the same.

The fabric is a cotton jersey in a lovely pink shade from The Sweet Mercerie, that I got before the Summer holidays and was intended to become a Lana tee for myself, but didn’t got the chance to actually make it… until now.

I’m glad that, at the time, I bought some extra fabric, because I managed to also make one tee for myself. Now we can go out twinning 😉 Not sure that will actually happen but we like the fact that we can if we want to and despite the cold, we had fun taking photos.

Do you know that Olga just added long sleeves to the pattern? How great is that? You can use your Lana all year long! I managed to make a long sleeve version for F in time to enjoy these beautiful Autumn days.

For the dress, I’ve used a Liberty jersey bought over a year ago for her, at Fabrics Galore. Of course, she loved it because: 1 it has ruffles; 2 is super comfortable… 3 it has her favourite colour.

I made a straight size 8, but the hem is only ½ inch instead of 1 inch in the hope that will still fit next Spring.

So, the Lana really is a lovely pattern, well drafted, with great fit and as you will realise during this tour, so versatile. Honestly, do follow along the Tour as it will be very inspiring. If you would like to get the pattern, now it is a great time, as it is 20% off (excluding bundle) with code ‘lanatour’.

Thank you so much Olga and Emi for having me on the Tour! 😊