A Vintage Summer Dress for F

Leave a comment May 25, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

A little unexpectedly, but certainly happy for it, we are having lovely warm weather, that made me want to sew more for summer. My favourite kind of sewing after all.

I don’t think I will be making the girls a lot of clothes nonetheless, I would like to make them a couple of things and when I asked F what she would like me to make her, she said a shirtdress. She really adored the one I made her, a few years ago so, she asked for a new one.

I had a vintage pattern in my stash however, it was a size 12. A little too big for the moment. So, I had a look on ebay and there it was, the very same pattern in size 10. The pattern is Simplicity 5178 from 1972.

It was not the first time I made F a Simplicity vintage pattern and I really like how it fits her.

The pattern offers three different skirt options and two sleeve options. We went for the short sleeve with gathered skirt and fabric belt. The pattern also includes pockets but I skipped those.

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In true vintage style, the skirt is on the short side. I absolutely adore the vintage skirts but, I want the dress to last all summer so, I made a smaller hem in an attempt to make this dress last a bit more.

About the pattern itself, I am pleased with the fit. The dress has darts at the waistline (front and back) and at the shoulders (back) and that does make a difference.

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The instructions were easy to follow and I had no issues with that part. What I was not so pleased with, was how the skirt front opening turned out. My fault entirely and I will try to press it better next time she wears it.

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The fabric I used is a cotton poplin, from Stragier, in her favourite colour, yellow. To make some contrast, I used Liberty Mitsi cotton lawn for the belt and I couldn’t resit and also made her hair bows to match, using the Clara Bows pattern from Jilly Atlanta.

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Overall, I am really pleased with the dress and so is F. I find it to be age appropriate and with a good fit.

Sewing for the girls age group is a bit challenging but, it is fun to see how different is their taste for clothes.

Have a lovely week.

Maria x

Something a little bit different

Leave a comment May 6, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

It has been a while since I last posted here and how much things have changed around here!

Hope you are managing well and that this situation is not having a significant impact in your life.

I have been sewing a little, not much as I am finding it a bit hard to focus and today, I am here to share something a little bit different from my usual projects but, adorable nonetheless.

I have made several of Jilly Atlanta patterns and some of them several times. Jilly Atlanta’s patterns are classic, lovely and my girls really like to wear the clothes I make them using the patterns. This time however, Jilly is releasing a hair bows pattern! The Clara Bows.

There are five different bows in different sizes and can be used as headband, with a hairclip or bobble, to suit all hair styles and ages.

I just couldn’t stop after making one and got a bit carried away. Here are a few bows I have made.

These are bow #3 using gingham cotton to match the pinafore 😊

I used hair bobbles for these.

Made the option #4 using different fabrics, like broderie anglaise and Liberty Tana Lawn. So sweet!

These are all with alligator hairclips except the broderie anglaise ones (I made two). For these I made one with hair bobble and other with hairclip.

For the bow option #5, used swiss cotton dot and adore the vintage look!

This one is also with hairclip.

For a more relaxed look, made the option #7 in chambray and hair bobble.

Finally, made the option #9 using a lightweight linen and used hairclip.

As usual, the pattern includes clear and detailed instructions and even if, like me, this is not your usual project, you can achieve lovely bows to match all those pretty dresses. Also, I think option #4 and 5 works well for grown-ups as well.

This is the perfect project to use scraps or for children to learn sewing. Plus, it is free if you join Jilly Atlanta Facebook Group. 😊 Yes, that is correct, it is free!

Go on, join the group if you haven’t yet and have fun.

Maria x

The Madrid Dress Tour

Leave a comment June 20, 2019 apinchofsewing

Today is my turn to share my version of the Madrid Dress! The Tour started last Monday, 17^th June and goes until Friday, 28^th. There have been some lovely versions and I am sure there will be plenty more and loads of inspiration. So, please, make sure you check it on IG, it is really worth it!

The Madrid Dress is Coffee and Thread’s latest pattern and is a Bohemian inspired faux wrap dress, packed with options that will make it wearable throughout the year, as a dress or a tunic.

The pattern is available from sizes 2 to 20 and based on my chest and waist measurements I made a size 2. Now, my hips measurements place me between size 2 and 4 but, as it isn’t a fitted dress in this area, I did not make any changes and went with a straight size 2.

Contrary to my usual self, I did some changes to the original pattern. First, I made it sleeveless. I have omitted the sleeves and finished with bias binding. I did consider lining the bodice but, because it is a faux wrap it wouldn’t work as I intended and abandoned the idea. I did make a toile but at the time it didn’t seemed necessary to take a bit at the shoulder although now I think it would have been better… Next time I know!

The second change I made was not exactly a change, I just added a ruffle to the neckline and I absolutely love it. 😊 The dress is lovely as it is but, I’ve seen a few ready to wear garments with that kind of ruffle and really wanted to make it.

I did not make any changes to the skirt and went for a midi length. I must thank Olga for mentioning in the instructions, that this pattern was drafted for women 160-172 centimetres height. Not my case, I am smaller, but in this case, decided not change anything to start with and see how it looked. Because the second tier is a rectangle, if it was necessary, I would take some length at the end. I ended up liking how it looked and not changing anything.

There is also an optional tie, that I made as I couldn’t resist a bow. I already have another version planned (just waiting for the fabric to arrive) and that one will not have the tie but, I am considering taking a couple of centimetres at the waist to make it a bit more fitted.

The fabric I used is Liberty Tana Lawn Edenham from Alice Caroline. I do adore this print and think it worked really well for this dress. Now we just need proper summer weather in the UK for me to wear it. Honestly, my boots are out again and the heating is on… I do need some sun!

I do have happy news for you! Olga offering 25% off any of her patterns during the tour, with code “madridtour” 😊 If you’re wanting to try one (or several) of her patterns, now it is a good time to get it. I’ve made quite a few of her patterns and totally recommend.

April Dress for F

2 Comments June 9, 2019 apinchofsewing

As I mentioned in previous posts, F grew out of most of her summer clothes and I’ve been trying to build her a new summer wardrobe for this year. I always like the girls to have in their wardrobes a couple of classic dresses, having in mind their particular taste and that F still enjoys wearing this style quite a lot, I will make her dresses for as long as she wants me to.

A couple of months ago Children’s Corner Patterns released a new pattern, that I really enjoyed but wasn’t sure the girls would be willing to wear. So, before buying it, I asked if F liked it and F said she did very much 😊. I waited until it was available in the UK, at the House of Smocking, to avoid expensive shipping and tax fees, as it is a paper pattern. Update: The April pattern is now available as a PDF. Such great news!

The April pattern has a sweet vintage design, with side ruffles, an optional smocked insert and also optional sash, that F said she wanted. The bodice is fully lined and it closes at the back with buttons.

F’s measurements are size 7 for chest and waist but her height is a size 10 so, I cut a straight size 7. This pattern has a large hem so I knew I could use it to adjust the height to make it work. She asked me not to make the dress on the short side because she wants it to last and for that reason, I made the hem only 1+1 centimetre. Hope it lasts all summer!

I really liked the neat finishing in this pattern, the way the buttons placket is made and I also handstitched the bodice lining. It’s a lovely dress inside out.

The main fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn in Betsy Mint from Alice Caroline and the lining is cotton voile from my stash. I had made her a dress in the same fabric last year that is being used by M this year.

For those who believe that little girls can’t play freely while wearing this kind of dresses, fear not, they can. 😉

Summer Tops for F

Leave a comment May 14, 2019 apinchofsewing

During Eater break we had some lovely warm weather and that was when we realised that F had barely anything to wear!

As usual in the UK, the good weather did not last long and it gave me the perfect time to sew a few tops for F. I also realised that she is growing out of quite a lot of the girls’ patterns I own, as well as some of my Japanese Sewing Books…

Also, I wanted to use some fabric scraps with less than one metre each, that were left from previous projects and these tops proved to be the perfect project for the effect.

The first top I made was the Eloise Gathered Top by Townmouse Patterns. I’ve made this pattern before, three years ago for M and really like it but, unfortunately, F has now outgrown it. To make it work for her I used the size 8 (her chest measurement) and added 5 centimetres to the length.

The fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn in Betsy Denim from Stragier. This print/colour is so beautiful! I also added a cotton lace trim to the front to add some interest. Not that it needed, as both print and fabric are quite beautiful but, I just couldn’t help it.

The second top is also a repeat from one I’ve made previously for F. It is the “Le Haut à Encolure Volantée” from the book “Nouveaux Intemporels pour Enfants”. I made a size 8 for width with 10 for height.

This time, she chose the fabric and picked a Liberty Tana Lawn Ella and Libby bought ages ago (literally). Such a summery print!

The last top is a really lovely top from the Japanese book “A Sunny Spot”, pattern #10. This is a simple boxy top with just a couple pattern pieces, however, the elastic at the armhole gives it a cute look and adds some interest. I really like how it turned out, simple but cute.

Of course, I had to use F’s favourite print/colour, Liberty Tana Lawn in Capel mustard. I made the size 140 thinking that it would be fairly large on her as she is not 140cm tall but was surprised to find out that it fitted rather well.

All the tops can be easily paired with jeans, shorts or skirts, so that they will have plenty of use and as I made the tops on the large side, fingers crossed, they will last until the end of this summer!

M6696 A Summer Dress

Leave a comment April 22, 2019 apinchofsewing

Hope you’ve had a wonderful Easter break. As I am writing this post, we are enjoying our last few moments of holidays, before returning to school tomorrow. It was a lovely break with some days of wonderful weather that, made the summer dresses come out of the closet… except for F, who has barely nothing to wear as she outgrown almost everything in her closet! Need to fix that ASAP!

In any case today, I am not here to talk about my girls’ clothes. I am here to share with you another summer dress I have made.

I bought this pattern last year but, didn’t managed to actually make it until a couple of months ago as part of one of my projects for Minerva Crafts (I’ll share more about that later) and I liked it so much that I made it again, this time using a different fabric.

The pattern is the McCall’s M6696, made in version B. The sizes for these patterns are slightly different from most Indie designers I’ve worked with but, I used my measurements to choose the size and did not have any issues. So, I made a size 8 graded to 10 at the waist/hip without any further adjustments, except taking 4 centimetres to the skirt height. Also, I omitted the pockets only because I did not have enough fabric.

I found this pattern very complete offering three different cup sizes options, also three sleeves and 2 skirt options, including as well a slip dress to wear under in case it’s needed. I opted for the short sleeve and pleated skirt option. In fact, the pleats are one of my favourite things in this pattern.

The fabric was bought without a specific pattern in mind (that’s why I didn’t had enough for the pockets!) and it’s a recent product from Stragier, Liberty’s Double Gauze. Yes, it is as good as it sounds! It has only a few (but all gorgeous) prints available and I bought the Felicite one.

The fabric worked very well for this project and was nice to work with. When I work with double gauze, I always prefer to use a walking foot. Do you use a regular foot?

I am so pleased with this dress! I really like the details in the pattern, how comfortable it is and, of course, how pretty it looks.

A Not So New Outfit for F

1 Comment December 13, 2018 apinchofsewing

We are now starting to truly feel the Christmas spirit but, before I close my sewing room door to spend family time, I would like to share a few more things I made.

This outfit was made some time ago but, I’m struggling a little to document my makes… This blouse was one of the first things I made F this Autumn and is such a lovely one.

It’s not because I took part in the design of this pattern that I like it and use it a lot. It’s because it was something, I really missed in my daughters’ handmade wardrobe. The Maria blouse was, once more, the pattern used 😉

I made the blouse version (perfect to wear with a pinafore), with long sleeves and ruffled collar (F’s favourite) in size 9 for height with size 7 for width.

The fabric used is Liberty Tana Lawn Ava from Alice Caroline. I found this print and colour so much prettier than I expected, I must say.

The pinafore is the Ainsley Pinafore by Jilly Atlanta. This pattern has a design a little differently than the usual pinafores, as the waistline is raised and I think it actually looks adorable.

I opted for the lower U neckline, elastic back for extra comfort and button straps, made in size 8 for height and 6x for width. That’s why F likes the clothes I make her so much. The fit is much better!

For the main fabric I used a corduroy that was in my stash for some time and for the lining the same fabric as the blouse. How lovely does it look inside? This is another reason for enjoying sewing so much, the pretty inside!

I made a matching (although completely different) outfit for M that I hope to share in the near future. 😊

The Lana Pattern Tour

Leave a comment November 6, 2018 apinchofsewing

In case you’ve missed it, the Lana Pattern Tour started yesterday with some lovely versions and today is my turn to share what I’ve made.

I bought the ladies version when it was released. I’ve made it back then and wear it so much, that when Emi and Olga contacted me to know if I wanted to take part in the tour, I immediately said yes.

M “needed” a new tee for the school disco, so I asked her how she felt about the newly released girls’ version and she willingly said yes!

The pattern is available from size 12 months to 14 years old and has two dress options besides the tee. I made a size 7 for M without any changes and she absolutely loved it. In fact, I got the best compliment from her. She said that when this one doesn’t fit anymore, she wants another one just the same.

The fabric is a cotton jersey in a lovely pink shade from The Sweet Mercerie, that I got before the Summer holidays and was intended to become a Lana tee for myself, but didn’t got the chance to actually make it… until now.

I’m glad that, at the time, I bought some extra fabric, because I managed to also make one tee for myself. Now we can go out twinning 😉 Not sure that will actually happen but we like the fact that we can if we want to and despite the cold, we had fun taking photos.

Do you know that Olga just added long sleeves to the pattern? How great is that? You can use your Lana all year long! I managed to make a long sleeve version for F in time to enjoy these beautiful Autumn days.

For the dress, I’ve used a Liberty jersey bought over a year ago for her, at Fabrics Galore. Of course, she loved it because: 1 it has ruffles; 2 is super comfortable… 3 it has her favourite colour.

I made a straight size 8, but the hem is only ½ inch instead of 1 inch in the hope that will still fit next Spring.

So, the Lana really is a lovely pattern, well drafted, with great fit and as you will realise during this tour, so versatile. Honestly, do follow along the Tour as it will be very inspiring. If you would like to get the pattern, now it is a great time, as it is 20% off (excluding bundle) with code ‘lanatour’.

Thank you so much Olga and Emi for having me on the Tour! 😊

Party Dresses

2 Comments September 4, 2018 apinchofsewing

Before going on holidays, we attended a wedding and for the first time, I decided to make the dresses for both girls and myself. I was comfortable with the girls’ dresses, but not so much with making one for myself. Let’s be honest, I’ve made a few dresses for myself, but a dress to attend a wedding I was not so sure.

To start, I made M a dress I had made before and really like, the Atlanta dress by Nun Studio.

For this dress it is essential that it fits properly at the chest, so I made a size 6 for width, with size 8 for height and the fit is great.

My favourite part of the dress are the sleeves, so I wanted to accentuate that feature and used a different fabric for lining ang cotton lace. The main fabric is Broderie Anglaise from the Sweet Mercerie and the lining fabric is Liberty Felicité denim blue from Stragier. Two of my favourite fabrics 😉 and I just wish this dress could grow with her…

F asked me if I could make her a twirling dress with a sash and bow. That was an easy request, that I was pleased to fulfil.

Once more, I used a pattern I already knew, the Tinny Dress by Straight Grain, with circle skirt and regular bodice. To make it as per F’s request, I added a sash. Also, I thought a ruffled collar would look good and she agreed on adding it.

I made a straight size 8, using the same fabrics used for M’s dress. Installing an invisible zipper in this fabric was not the most enjoyable task and it’s not perfect but the sash helps disguise and it looks so pretty!

Although it was quite warm back in July, the truth is you can never trust the weather in the UK, so I decided to make both girls a cape, bearing in mind that the wedding was at the evening.

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The pattern I used is the Constance Cape by Jilly Atlanta in size 7 for both girls. To choose the size I considered the shoulder to shoulder measurement and opted for straight hem, gathered collar and ties. The girls did really enjoy this cape 😊

I used a linen from Stone Fabrics for the main fabric and some Liberty (the same as the one used for the dresses) for the collar and ties. Love how it looks!

Now, this post is getting a little longer than usual and I hope someone is still reading until this point.

For myself, I thought about using a pattern for a long dress, but I was afraid I would have to make changes and I didn’t had the time to make muslins and adjustments, so I decided to go with a pattern I already knew and loved and made one more Amalfi dress…

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The only change I made was to extend the skirt. I used the tea length version to start with and added 26cm.

The fabric is viscose crepe from Atelier Brunette bought at Maçãs d’Amor. I’ve used this fabric before and knew it drapes beautifully, just what I needed to achieve the look I had in mind.

Now I promise I will stop sharing summer projects and hope it won’t take too long to share my autumn make

The Maria Blouse

1 Comment May 18, 2018 apinchofsewing

Sharing today’s post with you makes me really happy and a bit excited. Susana and I have been working on this pattern for a few months and today, finally it’s coming to life! 😊

As my girls are growing I find it more challenging to get clothes that are age adequate. Not too grown up, not too childish. They like to wear dresses and skirts but jeans are also popular around here and that is also fine, but I still like to look at them and not see a mini grown up. I know this is personal preference and some might disagree. On the other hand, I understand and respect that they are not little children anymore and have their own style and preferences. That is when the idea of a blouse that would be age adequate crossed my mind but, I can’t make patterns…

Also, I thought other girls would like to wear these blouses, but then again… I can’t make patterns, I don’t have the knowledge. That’s when I thought about Susana! I know her patterns and I know she works really well, so maybe she would be interested in making a pattern. I’m so glad she agreed! She definitely put a lot of work into it. A few muslins and a test later, the Maria Blouse is now live! 😊

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The blouse has two bodice options, four sleeves and two collar options. Can you imagine how many blouses you will be able to make with this pattern? Plus, it comes from sizes 3 to 14 years old!

As I’ve made a few blouses, I will make two blog posts. Today I’ll be sharing the gathered bodice version and on Monday I’ll be sharing more versions.

For F, I made a version with ruffle sleeves and collar, in size 6 for width and 8 for length. In case you need, just as I did, to blend sizes, the instructions also include this adjustment.

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F still likes to wear ruffled collars, so I made this version for her. Isn’t the collar so sweet?

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The fabric is very lightweight and I liked it so much when I saw it at Pra Kriar that I forgot to see the composition! This is something very unlikely in me but it happened. I believe it is a cotton though. I bought the last metre available but there was another fabric very similar, that I also bought and it will be another Maria Blouse, for M.

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On the other hand, M is not so keen on wearing ruffled collars… so I made a version with peter pan collar and short sleeves. As you see, the pattern has versions for all tastes 😉

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I must say that I also find a peter pan collar adorable!

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For this version I used a Liberty Betsy Porcelain. This is one of my favourite prints and the colours are so beautiful.

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It’s no secret that I like some vintage inspiration and for that reason I mentioned to Susana that I would like the blouse to include puff sleeves option but I confess that the sleeves Susana designed exceeded my expectations. Those sleeves are so pretty! From my two daughters, F is the one that likes more this kind of style so, I made this version for her.

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