New shirt with pretty ruffles

Leave a comment May 1, 2023 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well and had a good start of the week.

As you might remember from my last post, I had a new blouse nearly finished and, taking advantage of today’s bank holiday, I finished it and photographed. Just in time for the warmer weather! Although I suspect I might still need a cardigan…

This time, I also used a pattern I have used before to make a different version and, just as my previous make, I used a fabric that have been in my stash for too long.

So, starting with the pattern. I used the Top Kim by Ose Patterns. As I mentioned, I made this pattern previously and there is a post about it at Minerva. This time however, I made version A, short sleeve. The fit was good in my first version so, I did not make any changes. Again, I made a straight size 34 based on my bust measurements.

As usual with Ose patterns, the instructions are quite good and detailed and the fit works really well for me without having to make changes however, if that was the case, the pattern also includes instructions for some adjustments.

Almost forgot to mention, despite the pattern designer being French, the instructions are also available in English.

The sleeve is lovely as it is but, I had to add the little ruffle at the bottom!

I made a small change to the original pattern however. After seeing a ready to wear blouse somewhere with a sleeve I quite liked, I decide to recreate it. The change was pretty simple to achieve. I just added a small ruffle to the bottom of the sleeve cuff.

Instead of cutting only one piece of fabric for the cuff and fold in half, I cut it into two pieces adding the seam allowance. For the ruffle I cut a piece of fabric with double the hight I wanted (plus seam allowance, of course) and fold it in half. The length was one and a half times the length of the cuff. Could not be any simpler!

I am so very pleased with how this sleeve turned out! It was but a simple addition nonetheless, it does make a difference and I quite like it. 😊

Now, regarding the fabric. I used a Liberty Tana Lawn Cotton, in the print D’Anjo that I bought eight years ago (!!) in Portugal, in a lovely shop, The Craft Company in Cascais. I am not even sure if they still have Liberty fabric there but even so, I do recommend a visit if you ever happen to go that way.

This really is a quick and easy make. The fit is relaxed as there are no darts and the there is a back yoke that can be used to play around with the fabric placement, as I did with my previous version, or even use different prints! I really like this pattern and see myself making more versions in the future, both with long and short sleeves.

Hope you all have a great week!

Happy sewing!

Maria x

The Liberty Alexa Frill Dress Kit

Leave a comment December 29, 2021 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well.

The year is almost over and sewing wise, 2021 was a nice one. I made some garments that I have really loved and I challenged myself to make trousers!

One thing I have also used for the first time was a sewing kit.

I had the opportunity to try the Liberty Alexa Frill Dress Kit and you can read all about it here and here.

Hope you like it! 🙂

Thank you so much for following my sewing adventures this year!

Maria x

Steven Trousers

1 Comment October 29, 2021 apinchofsewing

Hope you are all well.

Today I have something a bit different to share with you. I have been wanting to try new things and challenge myself a bit. There are two things I haven’t really tried to make as I found those a little scary and I am not sure I can make it look good and with a professional finishing. Maybe I should say I was scared…

Those two things are trousers and coats/blazers. The coat/blazer I will have to make another time but I just made a pair of trousers that actually look amazing inside and out!!

I have previously shared some makes of mine using Ose Patterns, a French designer that I truly like, not only for the very well drafted patterns and great instructions, the lovely encouragement words in the patterns but also for the person behind the brand, Monty, that is really a lovely lady and I know, puts a lot of work into her patterns to make them the best possible.

Today Ose Patterns are releasing a new pattern, the Steven Trousers and I had the opportunity to try the pattern. I will tell you all about it!

The Steven Trousers are high-waisted, have side slant pockets and all the details like a zipper fly and internal button and hook and bar closure.

The pattern is available from sizes 34 (UK 6) to 48 (UK 20) and are drafted for a height of 168cm. I find this last detail extremely useful as I almost always need to shorten and I know, without having to guess how much to reduce in height. Also, as usual in Ose Patterns, there are detailed and very useful instructions in case adjustments are needed.

I don’t often make a muslin however, in this case I did and the instruction also include all the steps for a useful muslin! To start with I made a size 34 (UK 6) at the waist and size 36 (UK 8) at the hip but after trying the muslin took a bit at the hip.

As for the fabric, I used a gabardine that I had in my stash for a long time and the fabric worked well but I really want to make another pair in corduroy for the colder months or maybe a twill a bit heavier.

Now, as you can see from the photos, I am quite happy with the fit. I just love how well the trousers fit at the waist and hip but are loose at in the legs. So comfortable! However, as much as I love the trousers outside, the inside makes me put a smile each time…

You see, the detail and care that goes into it… The seams are finished with bias all looks so neat. Of course, you can use other methods but I adore a bit of a flowery bias binding against a plain fabric. Business outside and fun inside! The fabric used for the lining is a very soft cotton and for the bias biding I used Liberty Cotton Tana Lawn.

I think that for a first pair of trousers these turned out pretty good. I am glad I challenged myself. If, like me, you are struggling to make trousers, there is also a video that is really helpful so, fear not, go for it!

Note: The pattern was gifted for me to try but the comments are my own and genuinely honest.

Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading!

Maria x

Brené camisole

Leave a comment July 30, 2021 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well and enjoying Summer (in case you are in North hemisphere).

Sunny weather hasn’t been very reliable this year but, that did not keep me from sewing a couple of summer tops. Although it might seem a bit useless, having in mind that I live in the UK, the truth is, I do wear cami tops quite a lot as they are perfect under a cardigan or blazer.

A couple of months ago I tried the Pema pattern from Ose Patterns and liked it so much that I wanted to try other patterns and this time I bought the Brené Camisole and will be sharing with you the versions I made.

I found the pattern has some lovely details as it is but, it is also a great starting point to make it your own. As the Pema Dress, I found the pattern to be very well drafted and the instructions clear and detailed, with links to helpful videos. Also, it includes detailed and helpful instruction for size adjustments.

For the first version I made a straight size 34 based on my bust and waist measurements, with no alterations. In this case, I used a cotton lawn that was part of my stash for some time now (don’t even remember where I got it!) and a shirting cotton fabric for the lapel.

As per the instructions, I interfaced the facings, straps and lapel. The straps, I only interfaced half and I think it worked well. I find the lapel such a cute detail and it works great with a contrasting fabric or using the same. Also, the buttons can add a lovely detail. In this case, I only used one, instead of the three suggested.

In my opinion, the fabric worked really well for this pattern and I am so happy with the fit. The way it is designed makes it fit without being tight and the straps are perfect to cover bra straps.

For my second version I decided to experiment a bit. I made the same size, 34, without alterations but this time I added broderie anglaise lace to the straps (and absolutely love it) and omitted the lapel as I wanted the straps to stand out, keeping the rest simple.

As for the fabric, I used a Liberty quilting cotton. It is a wonderful quality and a bit different from other quilting cottons I’ve previously used. Even so, I think a lighter cotton or a fabric with more drape works better for this pattern. Nonetheless, I like it a lot!

This pattern is perfect to add some details and make it your own!

This is a perfect pattern for someone that is a beginner as there is no closures and to use fabric leftovers.

I am genuinely happy with the fit and definitely it is a pattern that I will be making again and that I recommend.

Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading!

Maria x

All about the sleeves

Leave a comment June 1, 2021 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well.

This last days the weather has been wonderful and of course, there was a need to make a new dress. Any excuse is good, really…

I made a lovely dress using a gorgeous Liberty linen / cotton. The pattern is the Anthea dress by Anna Allen and I don’t think I have to tell you how much I like those sleeves!

You can read all about this pretty dress at Minerva 🙂

I told you the sleeves were pretty! Also, how lovely is this print!

Hope you like the dress 🙂

Have a wonderful week!

Maria x

Louise Blouse for F

Leave a comment December 21, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Here we are almost at Christmas and what a year it has been…

Today, I am sharing new blouse I made for F using lovely Liberty of London fabric.

This is a lovely project and you can read all about it here.

Wish you all a wonderful Christmas. This year might be very different but we will try to make it special.

Take care,

Maria x

The Curcuma Blouse

2 Comments June 18, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well and safe.

As you might have realised already, I do like patterns with nice details and for that reason, I was very happy to try Tilia Patterns’ new release, The Curcuma Blouse and Dress.

I have followed and admired Eveline’s work for quite some time and was really pleased when she announced she would be starting her own patterns company. Her first pattern is the Curcuma Blouse and Dress and it is a lovely one.

The pattern is available in sizes 34 to 54 as a blouse or dress, with short or long sleeves. The instructions are very clear, include fit adjustments and a tutorial with two options for the shirring technique.

This was the first time I ever used the shirring technique. To be honest, I was a bit afraid I would ruin everything and that, as soon as I finished sewing the elastic would get loose. Silly me! The technique is actually simple and the instructions are a good guide. I must say I also watched a video tutorial because I wanted to see how it was made in a similar sewing machine. Luckily, I did not need to change the bobbin tension and using a long stitch length was all I needed.

As you can see, I opted for the blouse version with short sleeves. I made a size 34 and shortened it 8 centimetres because the pattern was designed for a height of 168 cm and I am only 157cm. Apart of that minor adjustment I did not made any more changes.

I do like how chic and stylish this pattern is but, at the same time, so comfortable to wear. I don’t think it is very visible as the fabric print is busy but the sleeves are raglan. Also, the blouse has a slit back opening (not visible in the photo unfortunately) that closes with a button.

Regarding the fabric, I used a Liberty double gauze that I got last year from Stragier, it is so beautiful and soft. Double gauze is one of the recommended fabrics and it worked really well.

If you know me, even if only a bit, you must have guessed that my favourite part from this pattern is the collar and the sleeve. Such lovely details! I will need a long sleeve version of this blouse for autumn.

I followed the instructions and the construction went smoothly, the fit is good and I am genuinely happy with this blouse.

The pattern was kindly gifted to me and I was not asked for a blog post however, my opinion is completely honest and I absolutely adore this blouse. 😊

Have a lovely weekend.

Maria x

Golden Dress

Leave a comment June 3, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

I don’t know about you but, here in the UK the weather has been wonderful lately and making us dream of Summer holidays. I am not having high hopes regarding this Summer holiday however, that is not keeping me from making a few garments.

Yesterday, Project Run & Play released a pattern collection ready for Summer, the Project Watercolour Beach. This collection is a set of 10 patterns from different designers and Suco by Susana is one of them.

From what I could see, the collection has some great patterns however, I will only talk about the Golden Dress, from Suco by Susana, because that was the one I tested.

The Golden Dress is available from size 12 moths to 14 years old and is an easy one to make, easy to wear dress. It does not have buttons, zippers or other closures and that makes it perfect to wear on the beach, pool… but also looks great as dress for everyday wear. Just play around with different fabrics to obtain different styles.

I made a size 10 for F, without any changes, fits her perfectly and is very comfortable. The elastic waist makes it fitted but comfortable.

Despite having easy construction, this dress has really good finishing and some lovely details. To start with, it has pockets. You will have to trust me on this one as I forgot to take photos of the pockets but, it is there. The waist tie also adds some cute detail and is great if you want to use a contrasting fabric for a pop of colour.

Also, the neckline facing not only make a good finishing but also look really nice, even if not visible. As you know I like garments with pretty insides.

As for the fabric, it is recommended light-weight fabrics with good drape. I used a Robert Kaufmann Chambray bought 5 years ago(!) that I thought was perfect as it also matches the pattern collection theme. It worked pretty well in my opinion. As contrast, for the tie and facing, I used a Liberty Tana Lawn.

Overall, I found the pattern really cute and practical, perfect for everyday wear. As usual with Suco by Susana patterns, the fit is good, the instructions clear and with good constructions techniques.

Susana, also has another pattern as part of the collection, the Lemon Tee Pattern.

Now, during the release week the patterns will have 20% discount and the collection bundle with over 30% discount.

Have a good week.

Maria x

A Vintage Summer Dress for F

Leave a comment May 25, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

A little unexpectedly, but certainly happy for it, we are having lovely warm weather, that made me want to sew more for summer. My favourite kind of sewing after all.

I don’t think I will be making the girls a lot of clothes nonetheless, I would like to make them a couple of things and when I asked F what she would like me to make her, she said a shirtdress. She really adored the one I made her, a few years ago so, she asked for a new one.

I had a vintage pattern in my stash however, it was a size 12. A little too big for the moment. So, I had a look on ebay and there it was, the very same pattern in size 10. The pattern is Simplicity 5178 from 1972.

It was not the first time I made F a Simplicity vintage pattern and I really like how it fits her.

The pattern offers three different skirt options and two sleeve options. We went for the short sleeve with gathered skirt and fabric belt. The pattern also includes pockets but I skipped those.

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In true vintage style, the skirt is on the short side. I absolutely adore the vintage skirts but, I want the dress to last all summer so, I made a smaller hem in an attempt to make this dress last a bit more.

About the pattern itself, I am pleased with the fit. The dress has darts at the waistline (front and back) and at the shoulders (back) and that does make a difference.

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The instructions were easy to follow and I had no issues with that part. What I was not so pleased with, was how the skirt front opening turned out. My fault entirely and I will try to press it better next time she wears it.

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The fabric I used is a cotton poplin, from Stragier, in her favourite colour, yellow. To make some contrast, I used Liberty Mitsi cotton lawn for the belt and I couldn’t resit and also made her hair bows to match, using the Clara Bows pattern from Jilly Atlanta.

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Overall, I am really pleased with the dress and so is F. I find it to be age appropriate and with a good fit.

Sewing for the girls age group is a bit challenging but, it is fun to see how different is their taste for clothes.

Have a lovely week.

Maria x

Something a little bit different

Leave a comment May 6, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

It has been a while since I last posted here and how much things have changed around here!

Hope you are managing well and that this situation is not having a significant impact in your life.

I have been sewing a little, not much as I am finding it a bit hard to focus and today, I am here to share something a little bit different from my usual projects but, adorable nonetheless.

I have made several of Jilly Atlanta patterns and some of them several times. Jilly Atlanta’s patterns are classic, lovely and my girls really like to wear the clothes I make them using the patterns. This time however, Jilly is releasing a hair bows pattern! The Clara Bows.

There are five different bows in different sizes and can be used as headband, with a hairclip or bobble, to suit all hair styles and ages.

I just couldn’t stop after making one and got a bit carried away. Here are a few bows I have made.

These are bow #3 using gingham cotton to match the pinafore 😊

I used hair bobbles for these.

Made the option #4 using different fabrics, like broderie anglaise and Liberty Tana Lawn. So sweet!

These are all with alligator hairclips except the broderie anglaise ones (I made two). For these I made one with hair bobble and other with hairclip.

For the bow option #5, used swiss cotton dot and adore the vintage look!

This one is also with hairclip.

For a more relaxed look, made the option #7 in chambray and hair bobble.

Finally, made the option #9 using a lightweight linen and used hairclip.

As usual, the pattern includes clear and detailed instructions and even if, like me, this is not your usual project, you can achieve lovely bows to match all those pretty dresses. Also, I think option #4 and 5 works well for grown-ups as well.

This is the perfect project to use scraps or for children to learn sewing. Plus, it is free if you join Jilly Atlanta Facebook Group. 😊 Yes, that is correct, it is free!

Go on, join the group if you haven’t yet and have fun.

Maria x