Brené camisole

Leave a comment July 30, 2021 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well and enjoying Summer (in case you are in North hemisphere).

Sunny weather hasn’t been very reliable this year but, that did not keep me from sewing a couple of summer tops. Although it might seem a bit useless, having in mind that I live in the UK, the truth is, I do wear cami tops quite a lot as they are perfect under a cardigan or blazer.

A couple of months ago I tried the Pema pattern from Ose Patterns and liked it so much that I wanted to try other patterns and this time I bought the Brené Camisole and will be sharing with you the versions I made.

I found the pattern has some lovely details as it is but, it is also a great starting point to make it your own. As the Pema Dress, I found the pattern to be very well drafted and the instructions clear and detailed, with links to helpful videos. Also, it includes detailed and helpful instruction for size adjustments.

For the first version I made a straight size 34 based on my bust and waist measurements, with no alterations. In this case, I used a cotton lawn that was part of my stash for some time now (don’t even remember where I got it!) and a shirting cotton fabric for the lapel.

As per the instructions, I interfaced the facings, straps and lapel. The straps, I only interfaced half and I think it worked well. I find the lapel such a cute detail and it works great with a contrasting fabric or using the same. Also, the buttons can add a lovely detail. In this case, I only used one, instead of the three suggested.

In my opinion, the fabric worked really well for this pattern and I am so happy with the fit. The way it is designed makes it fit without being tight and the straps are perfect to cover bra straps.

For my second version I decided to experiment a bit. I made the same size, 34, without alterations but this time I added broderie anglaise lace to the straps (and absolutely love it) and omitted the lapel as I wanted the straps to stand out, keeping the rest simple.

As for the fabric, I used a Liberty quilting cotton. It is a wonderful quality and a bit different from other quilting cottons I’ve previously used. Even so, I think a lighter cotton or a fabric with more drape works better for this pattern. Nonetheless, I like it a lot!

This pattern is perfect to add some details and make it your own!

This is a perfect pattern for someone that is a beginner as there is no closures and to use fabric leftovers.

I am genuinely happy with the fit and definitely it is a pattern that I will be making again and that I recommend.

Have a lovely weekend and thank you for reading!

Maria x

All about the sleeves

Leave a comment June 1, 2021 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well.

This last days the weather has been wonderful and of course, there was a need to make a new dress. Any excuse is good, really…

I made a lovely dress using a gorgeous Liberty linen / cotton. The pattern is the Anthea dress by Anna Allen and I don’t think I have to tell you how much I like those sleeves!

You can read all about this pretty dress at Minerva 🙂

I told you the sleeves were pretty! Also, how lovely is this print!

Hope you like the dress 🙂

Have a wonderful week!

Maria x

Louise Blouse for F

Leave a comment December 21, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Here we are almost at Christmas and what a year it has been…

Today, I am sharing new blouse I made for F using lovely Liberty of London fabric.

This is a lovely project and you can read all about it here.

Wish you all a wonderful Christmas. This year might be very different but we will try to make it special.

Take care,

Maria x

The Curcuma Blouse

2 Comments June 18, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

Hope you are all well and safe.

As you might have realised already, I do like patterns with nice details and for that reason, I was very happy to try Tilia Patterns’ new release, The Curcuma Blouse and Dress.

I have followed and admired Eveline’s work for quite some time and was really pleased when she announced she would be starting her own patterns company. Her first pattern is the Curcuma Blouse and Dress and it is a lovely one.

The pattern is available in sizes 34 to 54 as a blouse or dress, with short or long sleeves. The instructions are very clear, include fit adjustments and a tutorial with two options for the shirring technique.

This was the first time I ever used the shirring technique. To be honest, I was a bit afraid I would ruin everything and that, as soon as I finished sewing the elastic would get loose. Silly me! The technique is actually simple and the instructions are a good guide. I must say I also watched a video tutorial because I wanted to see how it was made in a similar sewing machine. Luckily, I did not need to change the bobbin tension and using a long stitch length was all I needed.

As you can see, I opted for the blouse version with short sleeves. I made a size 34 and shortened it 8 centimetres because the pattern was designed for a height of 168 cm and I am only 157cm. Apart of that minor adjustment I did not made any more changes.

I do like how chic and stylish this pattern is but, at the same time, so comfortable to wear. I don’t think it is very visible as the fabric print is busy but the sleeves are raglan. Also, the blouse has a slit back opening (not visible in the photo unfortunately) that closes with a button.

Regarding the fabric, I used a Liberty double gauze that I got last year from Stragier, it is so beautiful and soft. Double gauze is one of the recommended fabrics and it worked really well.

If you know me, even if only a bit, you must have guessed that my favourite part from this pattern is the collar and the sleeve. Such lovely details! I will need a long sleeve version of this blouse for autumn.

I followed the instructions and the construction went smoothly, the fit is good and I am genuinely happy with this blouse.

The pattern was kindly gifted to me and I was not asked for a blog post however, my opinion is completely honest and I absolutely adore this blouse. 😊

Have a lovely weekend.

Maria x

Golden Dress

Leave a comment June 3, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

I don’t know about you but, here in the UK the weather has been wonderful lately and making us dream of Summer holidays. I am not having high hopes regarding this Summer holiday however, that is not keeping me from making a few garments.

Yesterday, Project Run & Play released a pattern collection ready for Summer, the Project Watercolour Beach. This collection is a set of 10 patterns from different designers and Suco by Susana is one of them.

From what I could see, the collection has some great patterns however, I will only talk about the Golden Dress, from Suco by Susana, because that was the one I tested.

The Golden Dress is available from size 12 moths to 14 years old and is an easy one to make, easy to wear dress. It does not have buttons, zippers or other closures and that makes it perfect to wear on the beach, pool… but also looks great as dress for everyday wear. Just play around with different fabrics to obtain different styles.

I made a size 10 for F, without any changes, fits her perfectly and is very comfortable. The elastic waist makes it fitted but comfortable.

Despite having easy construction, this dress has really good finishing and some lovely details. To start with, it has pockets. You will have to trust me on this one as I forgot to take photos of the pockets but, it is there. The waist tie also adds some cute detail and is great if you want to use a contrasting fabric for a pop of colour.

Also, the neckline facing not only make a good finishing but also look really nice, even if not visible. As you know I like garments with pretty insides.

As for the fabric, it is recommended light-weight fabrics with good drape. I used a Robert Kaufmann Chambray bought 5 years ago(!) that I thought was perfect as it also matches the pattern collection theme. It worked pretty well in my opinion. As contrast, for the tie and facing, I used a Liberty Tana Lawn.

Overall, I found the pattern really cute and practical, perfect for everyday wear. As usual with Suco by Susana patterns, the fit is good, the instructions clear and with good constructions techniques.

Susana, also has another pattern as part of the collection, the Lemon Tee Pattern.

Now, during the release week the patterns will have 20% discount and the collection bundle with over 30% discount.

Have a good week.

Maria x

A Vintage Summer Dress for F

Leave a comment May 25, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

A little unexpectedly, but certainly happy for it, we are having lovely warm weather, that made me want to sew more for summer. My favourite kind of sewing after all.

I don’t think I will be making the girls a lot of clothes nonetheless, I would like to make them a couple of things and when I asked F what she would like me to make her, she said a shirtdress. She really adored the one I made her, a few years ago so, she asked for a new one.

I had a vintage pattern in my stash however, it was a size 12. A little too big for the moment. So, I had a look on ebay and there it was, the very same pattern in size 10. The pattern is Simplicity 5178 from 1972.

It was not the first time I made F a Simplicity vintage pattern and I really like how it fits her.

The pattern offers three different skirt options and two sleeve options. We went for the short sleeve with gathered skirt and fabric belt. The pattern also includes pockets but I skipped those.

_MG_0954

In true vintage style, the skirt is on the short side. I absolutely adore the vintage skirts but, I want the dress to last all summer so, I made a smaller hem in an attempt to make this dress last a bit more.

About the pattern itself, I am pleased with the fit. The dress has darts at the waistline (front and back) and at the shoulders (back) and that does make a difference.

_MG_0960

The instructions were easy to follow and I had no issues with that part. What I was not so pleased with, was how the skirt front opening turned out. My fault entirely and I will try to press it better next time she wears it.

_MG_0864

The fabric I used is a cotton poplin, from Stragier, in her favourite colour, yellow. To make some contrast, I used Liberty Mitsi cotton lawn for the belt and I couldn’t resit and also made her hair bows to match, using the Clara Bows pattern from Jilly Atlanta.

_MG_0932

Overall, I am really pleased with the dress and so is F. I find it to be age appropriate and with a good fit.

Sewing for the girls age group is a bit challenging but, it is fun to see how different is their taste for clothes.

Have a lovely week.

Maria x

Something a little bit different

Leave a comment May 6, 2020 apinchofsewing

Hello,

It has been a while since I last posted here and how much things have changed around here!

Hope you are managing well and that this situation is not having a significant impact in your life.

I have been sewing a little, not much as I am finding it a bit hard to focus and today, I am here to share something a little bit different from my usual projects but, adorable nonetheless.

I have made several of Jilly Atlanta patterns and some of them several times. Jilly Atlanta’s patterns are classic, lovely and my girls really like to wear the clothes I make them using the patterns. This time however, Jilly is releasing a hair bows pattern! The Clara Bows.

There are five different bows in different sizes and can be used as headband, with a hairclip or bobble, to suit all hair styles and ages.

I just couldn’t stop after making one and got a bit carried away. Here are a few bows I have made.

These are bow #3 using gingham cotton to match the pinafore 😊

I used hair bobbles for these.

Made the option #4 using different fabrics, like broderie anglaise and Liberty Tana Lawn. So sweet!

These are all with alligator hairclips except the broderie anglaise ones (I made two). For these I made one with hair bobble and other with hairclip.

For the bow option #5, used swiss cotton dot and adore the vintage look!

This one is also with hairclip.

For a more relaxed look, made the option #7 in chambray and hair bobble.

Finally, made the option #9 using a lightweight linen and used hairclip.

As usual, the pattern includes clear and detailed instructions and even if, like me, this is not your usual project, you can achieve lovely bows to match all those pretty dresses. Also, I think option #4 and 5 works well for grown-ups as well.

This is the perfect project to use scraps or for children to learn sewing. Plus, it is free if you join Jilly Atlanta Facebook Group. 😊 Yes, that is correct, it is free!

Go on, join the group if you haven’t yet and have fun.

Maria x

The Madrid Dress Tour

Leave a comment June 20, 2019 apinchofsewing

Today is my turn to share my version of the Madrid Dress! The Tour started last Monday, 17^th June and goes until Friday, 28^th. There have been some lovely versions and I am sure there will be plenty more and loads of inspiration. So, please, make sure you check it on IG, it is really worth it!

The Madrid Dress is Coffee and Thread’s latest pattern and is a Bohemian inspired faux wrap dress, packed with options that will make it wearable throughout the year, as a dress or a tunic.

The pattern is available from sizes 2 to 20 and based on my chest and waist measurements I made a size 2. Now, my hips measurements place me between size 2 and 4 but, as it isn’t a fitted dress in this area, I did not make any changes and went with a straight size 2.

Contrary to my usual self, I did some changes to the original pattern. First, I made it sleeveless. I have omitted the sleeves and finished with bias binding. I did consider lining the bodice but, because it is a faux wrap it wouldn’t work as I intended and abandoned the idea. I did make a toile but at the time it didn’t seemed necessary to take a bit at the shoulder although now I think it would have been better… Next time I know!

The second change I made was not exactly a change, I just added a ruffle to the neckline and I absolutely love it. 😊 The dress is lovely as it is but, I’ve seen a few ready to wear garments with that kind of ruffle and really wanted to make it.

I did not make any changes to the skirt and went for a midi length. I must thank Olga for mentioning in the instructions, that this pattern was drafted for women 160-172 centimetres height. Not my case, I am smaller, but in this case, decided not change anything to start with and see how it looked. Because the second tier is a rectangle, if it was necessary, I would take some length at the end. I ended up liking how it looked and not changing anything.

There is also an optional tie, that I made as I couldn’t resist a bow. I already have another version planned (just waiting for the fabric to arrive) and that one will not have the tie but, I am considering taking a couple of centimetres at the waist to make it a bit more fitted.

The fabric I used is Liberty Tana Lawn Edenham from Alice Caroline. I do adore this print and think it worked really well for this dress. Now we just need proper summer weather in the UK for me to wear it. Honestly, my boots are out again and the heating is on… I do need some sun!

I do have happy news for you! Olga offering 25% off any of her patterns during the tour, with code “madridtour” 😊 If you’re wanting to try one (or several) of her patterns, now it is a good time to get it. I’ve made quite a few of her patterns and totally recommend.

April Dress for F

2 Comments June 9, 2019 apinchofsewing

As I mentioned in previous posts, F grew out of most of her summer clothes and I’ve been trying to build her a new summer wardrobe for this year. I always like the girls to have in their wardrobes a couple of classic dresses, having in mind their particular taste and that F still enjoys wearing this style quite a lot, I will make her dresses for as long as she wants me to.

A couple of months ago Children’s Corner Patterns released a new pattern, that I really enjoyed but wasn’t sure the girls would be willing to wear. So, before buying it, I asked if F liked it and F said she did very much 😊. I waited until it was available in the UK, at the House of Smocking, to avoid expensive shipping and tax fees, as it is a paper pattern. Update: The April pattern is now available as a PDF. Such great news!

The April pattern has a sweet vintage design, with side ruffles, an optional smocked insert and also optional sash, that F said she wanted. The bodice is fully lined and it closes at the back with buttons.

F’s measurements are size 7 for chest and waist but her height is a size 10 so, I cut a straight size 7. This pattern has a large hem so I knew I could use it to adjust the height to make it work. She asked me not to make the dress on the short side because she wants it to last and for that reason, I made the hem only 1+1 centimetre. Hope it lasts all summer!

I really liked the neat finishing in this pattern, the way the buttons placket is made and I also handstitched the bodice lining. It’s a lovely dress inside out.

The main fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn in Betsy Mint from Alice Caroline and the lining is cotton voile from my stash. I had made her a dress in the same fabric last year that is being used by M this year.

For those who believe that little girls can’t play freely while wearing this kind of dresses, fear not, they can. 😉

Summer Tops for F

Leave a comment May 14, 2019 apinchofsewing

During Eater break we had some lovely warm weather and that was when we realised that F had barely anything to wear!

As usual in the UK, the good weather did not last long and it gave me the perfect time to sew a few tops for F. I also realised that she is growing out of quite a lot of the girls’ patterns I own, as well as some of my Japanese Sewing Books…

Also, I wanted to use some fabric scraps with less than one metre each, that were left from previous projects and these tops proved to be the perfect project for the effect.

The first top I made was the Eloise Gathered Top by Townmouse Patterns. I’ve made this pattern before, three years ago for M and really like it but, unfortunately, F has now outgrown it. To make it work for her I used the size 8 (her chest measurement) and added 5 centimetres to the length.

The fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn in Betsy Denim from Stragier. This print/colour is so beautiful! I also added a cotton lace trim to the front to add some interest. Not that it needed, as both print and fabric are quite beautiful but, I just couldn’t help it.

The second top is also a repeat from one I’ve made previously for F. It is the “Le Haut à Encolure Volantée” from the book “Nouveaux Intemporels pour Enfants”. I made a size 8 for width with 10 for height.

This time, she chose the fabric and picked a Liberty Tana Lawn Ella and Libby bought ages ago (literally). Such a summery print!

The last top is a really lovely top from the Japanese book “A Sunny Spot”, pattern #10. This is a simple boxy top with just a couple pattern pieces, however, the elastic at the armhole gives it a cute look and adds some interest. I really like how it turned out, simple but cute.

Of course, I had to use F’s favourite print/colour, Liberty Tana Lawn in Capel mustard. I made the size 140 thinking that it would be fairly large on her as she is not 140cm tall but was surprised to find out that it fitted rather well.

All the tops can be easily paired with jeans, shorts or skirts, so that they will have plenty of use and as I made the tops on the large side, fingers crossed, they will last until the end of this summer!