A New Summer Dress

Hello,

We are one week away from starting our School Summer Holidays and even if this year we are not going anywhere, sadly, it will be nice to put an end to this very unusual school year and get some rest. A few days of dolce far niente will certainly be very appreciated by the girls.

Even if at the moment I am writing this post, it is raining and a bit cold, I do hope we will get a few lovely and warm summer days. With that in mind, I made a dress that says Summer when you look at it.

_MG_1663_MG_1602

I had this idea in mind but not quite the exact pattern for it. Usually I am not very adventurous with changing patterns however, this was such an easy modification that even I could make it.

_MG_1598_MG_1647

A few months ago, I made a dress (I will share more about it another time) using a Butterick pattern, B4443, and I really liked the fit. Now, that pattern offers different bodice options and one of those options was (almost) what I had in mind.

_MG_1662

So, I started with the bodice and added shoulder straps. I really like how it looks without straps however, I also know I will feel a lot more comfortable with the straps and lately comfort is a priority. In fact, the straps ended up being one of my favourite things about this dress as I added broderie anglaise to them. Don’t those straps look adorable and summery?

_MG_1643_MG_1605-2

The instructions say to interface the bodice but, I decided not to do it. If I was to make it strapless, I would have to add some structure to it but, having straps to help support I thought the interfacing would be pointless. I do not regret this decision. Also, the bodice is already lined.

_MG_1607

When I started making the dress, I was not sure about the skirt. So, I made the bodice first to see how it would look before deciding. An A-line skirt did not seem quite right, a circle skirt might have worked out well but, I believe the gathered skirt fitted better this style and that is what I choose in the end. I like it!

_MG_1615_MG_1664

The fabric is a poplin that I bought a couple of years ago, at Minerva, with another project in mind… Well, you all know how the story goes. I am glad I finally put this fabric to a good use.

_MG_1681

I am really happy with how this dress turned out and I can picture myself in a picnic, in the fields, wearing it.

 

Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x


A Vintage Blouse with Puffy Sleeves

Hello,

I don’t know about you but lately, I haven’t been feeling like sewing much. Hopefully, my mood will change soon.

Nonetheless, I really wanted to share this blouse I made a few weeks ago, as not only I really like how it turned out but, also found it quite interesting to make.

_MG_1289

The pattern is a vintage one, Style 4752, from 1974, found on eBay. I was looking for a pattern similar to this one when I come across this one and really liked it. My initial idea was a peter pan collar and I first thought about changing the pattern however, the bow won in the end and I do not regret it. I can always make another version, right?

_MG_1382

Besides the short sleeve version, this pattern also includes a long sleeve option and a skirt with two lengths, available in size 10. Actually, my husband said this blouse would look better with a skirt so, I might have to make one…

_MG_1293_MG_1298

I did not make any changes or adjustments to the pattern and I absolutely love the fit. The French dart improves the fit so much! I didn’t quite finish it how it is mentioned in the Complete Guide to Sewing (my most used sewing book) and “had to” finish with the overlocker. How do you finish French darts?

_MG_1387_MG_1310

This was my first time making a bow tie collar and the instructions did not mentioned interfacing the standing part, so I didn’t. However, I now think I should have. Next time I will know! That is the beauty of sewing, there is always something new to learn.

_MG_1299

The fabric used is a lightweight dobby cotton from Ratucos, bought a couple of years ago. I wanted the pattern to “shine” and, for that reason, a plain fabric would, in my opinion, work better. I like how it turned out.

_MG_1320

Of course, my favourite feature is the sleeve. No surprise here! I really like how puffy it is. The bow tie also looks cute and I am happy I decide not to change it.

_MG_1302

Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x


The Curcuma Blouse

Hello,

 

Hope you are all well and safe.

As you might have realised already, I do like patterns with nice details and for that reason, I was very happy to try Tilia Patterns’ new release, The Curcuma Blouse and Dress.

I have followed and admired Eveline’s work for quite some time and was really pleased when she announced she would be starting her own patterns company. Her first pattern is the Curcuma Blouse and Dress and it is a lovely one.

_MG_1360-2

The pattern is available in sizes 34 to 54 as a blouse or dress, with short or long sleeves. The instructions are very clear, include fit adjustments and a tutorial with two options for the shirring technique.

This was the first time I ever used the shirring technique. To be honest, I was a bit afraid I would ruin everything and that, as soon as I finished sewing the elastic would get loose. Silly me! The technique is actually simple and the instructions are a good guide. I must say I also watched a video tutorial because I wanted to see how it was made in a similar sewing machine. Luckily, I did not need to change the bobbin tension and using a long stitch length was all I needed.

_MG_1368

As you can see, I opted for the blouse version with short sleeves. I made a size 34 and shortened it 8 centimetres because the pattern was designed for a height of 168 cm and I am only 157cm. Apart of that minor adjustment I did not made any more changes.

_MG_1363

I do like how chic and stylish this pattern is but, at the same time, so comfortable to wear. I don’t think it is very visible as the fabric print is busy but the sleeves are raglan. Also, the blouse has a slit back opening (not visible in the photo unfortunately) that closes with a button.

_MG_1353-2

Regarding the fabric, I used a Liberty double gauze that I got last year from Stragier, it is so beautiful and soft. Double gauze is one of the recommended fabrics and it worked really well.

_MG_1373

If you know me, even if only a bit, you must have guessed that my favourite part from this pattern is the collar and the sleeve. Such lovely details! I will need a long sleeve version of this blouse for autumn.

_MG_1346

_MG_1348

I followed the instructions and the construction went smoothly, the fit is good and I am genuinely happy with this blouse.

The pattern was kindly gifted to me and I was not asked for a blog post however, my opinion is completely honest and I absolutely adore this blouse. 😊

_MG_1375

 

Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x


Golden Dress

Hello,

I don’t know about you but, here in the UK the weather has been wonderful lately and making us dream of Summer holidays. I am not having high hopes regarding this Summer holiday however, that is not keeping me from making a few garments.

Yesterday, Project Run & Play released a pattern collection ready for Summer, the Project Watercolour Beach. This collection is a set of 10 patterns from different designers and Suco by Susana is one of them.

From what I could see, the collection has some great patterns however, I will only talk about the Golden Dress, from Suco by Susana, because that was the one I tested.

IMG_0251

The Golden Dress is available from size 12 moths to 14 years old and is an easy one to make, easy to wear dress. It does not have buttons, zippers or other closures and that makes it perfect to wear on the beach, pool… but also looks great as dress for everyday wear. Just play around with different fabrics to obtain different styles.

IMG_0248

I made a size 10 for F, without any changes, fits her perfectly and is very comfortable. The elastic waist makes it fitted but comfortable.

IMG_0320

Despite having easy construction, this dress has really good finishing and some lovely details. To start with, it has pockets. You will have to trust me on this one as I forgot to take photos of the pockets but, it is there. The waist tie also adds some cute detail and is great if you want to use a contrasting fabric for a pop of colour.

IMG_0274

Also, the neckline facing not only make a good finishing but also look really nice, even if not visible. As you know I like garments with pretty insides.

IMG_0366

As for the fabric, it is recommended light-weight fabrics with good drape. I used a Robert Kaufmann Chambray bought 5 years ago(!) that I thought was perfect as it also matches the pattern collection theme. It worked pretty well in my opinion. As contrast, for the tie and facing, I used a Liberty Tana Lawn.

IMG_0279

Overall, I found the pattern really cute and practical, perfect for everyday wear. As usual with Suco by Susana patterns, the fit is good, the instructions clear and with good constructions techniques.

IMG_0308

Susana, also has another pattern as part of the collection, the Lemon Tee Pattern.

Now, during the release week the patterns will have 20% discount and the collection bundle with over 30% discount.

 

Have a good week.

 

Maria x


Puff Sleeves Blouse for M

Hello,

 

Well, three posts in a week! This is a first!

I am really happy to share this make with you. As you might have realised already, I am not very adventurous when it comes to make changes to patterns. I am always afraid to ruin the fit and I end up waiting for a pattern similar to what I am looking for.

Not this time. M did like my Norma Blouse and it is more and more difficult to make things that she like to wear, so I took this opportunity to make something for her.

_MG_1236

What M liked the most were the sleeves (can’t blame her) so, that was my main point. Now, I do not know any children’s pattern with that kind of sleeves however, I was determined to achieve it. I had an idea where to start and that was the Maria Blouse from Suco by Susana.

_MG_1219

Now, the Maria Blouse already has a puff sleeve option so, that was my starting point. I made the shirt option in size 9 for height with size 7 for width based on her measurements and omitted the collar as per her request. I finished the neckline with bias binding, the same way as the instructions, except there was no collar.

_MG_1237

For the sleeves, I kept the puff sleeve head without changes, as it already had the volume I wanted and I didn’t want to mess the armhole fit. Next, I added the length desired. No complex math involved here as I just measured on M where I wanted the cuff.

_MG_1222

In order to have the desired volume at the cuff, I kept the sleeve similar to the Norma blouse one, only slightly smaller. Sorry, my pattern making knowledge is close to zero luckily it worked, I think. I am happy enough with how it turned out and so is M.

_MG_1220

As for the fabric, I used the same as for my blouse, a dobby cotton (plumeti) from Ratucos.

You didn’t think I was going to waste an opportunity to take photos with M twining, did you? We are not going to wear the blouses at the same time to go out, but it was good fun to take the photos and, in a few years, I will enjoy looking back at those.

_MG_1197_MG_1200_MG_1202

I am pretty pleased with how this bloused turned out but, most of all, I am pleased that I stepped out of my comfort zone to make it, even if was something simple. Small steps.

 

Have a lovely weekend.

 

Maria x


Norma Blouse

Hello,

 

I guess the warm weather is really having a good effect on me as my sewing plans are turning to life!

Today I am sharing a blouse recently released by Fibre Mood in their Edition 9. I don’t believe it is necessary to tell you what attracted me in this pattern, right? Just look at those sleeves!

_MG_1148

The pattern itself doesn’t bring any more options however, it is easily adjustable and I have seen some modifications that included turning it into a dress so, it is a good starting point.

_MG_1142

The instructions mention the pattern is available from size 4 up to 30 however, when printing, the sizes are 32 up to 58. I supposed that being a size 6 by the instructions, I would be a size 34 and that is the size I printed and made. Also, it is possible to print with layers and we can print with or without the seam allowances.

_MG_1144

As previously mentioned, I made a size 34 (or 6) without any changes. I am happy with the fit however I noticed the blouse has no bust darts so, I am not sure how the fit will be for bigger sizes. Nonetheless, all the versions I have seen are lovely.

_MG_1135

Regarding the fabric, I used a dobby white cotton or plumeti if you prefer. It is a light weight fabric and in my opinion, it worked pretty well. I got the fabric fromRatucos quite a few time ago, but they usually have a lovely selection of this fabric.

_MG_1159

I made this blouse with the intention of using it with high waist jeans and for that, it has the right length however, depending on what it will be used with, I might add a couple of centimetres in future ones I make.

_MG_1171

Overall, it is a lovely pattern and I will use this blouse a lot, of that I am sure.

 

Hope you are having a nice week.

 

Maria x


A Vintage Summer Dress for F

Hello,

A little unexpectedly, but certainly happy for it, we are having lovely warm weather, that made me want to sew more for summer. My favourite kind of sewing after all.

I don’t think I will be making the girls a lot of clothes nonetheless, I would like to make them a couple of things and when I asked F what she would like me to make her, she said a shirtdress. She really adored the one I made her, a few years ago so, she asked for a new one.

I had a vintage pattern in my stash however, it was a size 12. A little too big for the moment. So, I had a look on ebay and there it was, the very same pattern in size 10. The pattern is Simplicity 5178 from 1972.

_MG_0870

It was not the first time I made F a Simplicity vintage pattern and I really like how it fits her.

_MG_0920

The pattern offers three different skirt options and two sleeve options. We went for the short sleeve with gathered skirt and fabric belt. The pattern also includes pockets but I skipped those.

_MG_0954

In true vintage style, the skirt is on the short side. I absolutely adore the vintage skirts but, I want the dress to last all summer so, I made a smaller hem in an attempt to make this dress last a bit more. 

_MG_0891

About the pattern itself, I am pleased with the fit. The dress has darts at the waistline (front and back) and at the shoulders (back) and that does make a difference.

_MG_0960

The instructions were easy to follow and I had no issues with that part. What I was not so pleased with, was how the skirt front opening turned out. My fault entirely and I will try to press it better next time she wears it.

_MG_0864 

The fabric I used is a cotton poplin, from Stragier, in her favourite colour, yellow. To make some contrast, I used Liberty Mitsi cotton lawn for the belt and I couldn’t resit and also made her hair bows to match, using the Clara Bows pattern from Jilly Atlanta.

 

_MG_0932 

Overall, I am really pleased with the dress and so is F. I find it to be age appropriate and with a good fit.

Sewing for the girls age group is a bit challenging but, it is fun to see how different is their taste for clothes.

 

Have a lovely week.

Maria x


Something a little bit different

Hello,

 

It has been a while since I last posted here and how much things have changed around here!

Hope you are managing well and that this situation is not having a significant impact in your life.

 

I have been sewing a little, not much as I am finding it a bit hard to focus and today, I am here to share something a little bit different from my usual projects but, adorable nonetheless.

 

I have made several of Jilly Atlanta patterns and some of them several times. Jilly Atlanta’s patterns are classic, lovely and my girls really like to wear the clothes I make them using the patterns. This time however, Jilly is releasing a hair bows pattern! The Clara Bows.

There are five different bows in different sizes and can be used as headband, with a hairclip or bobble, to suit all hair styles and ages.

 

I just couldn’t stop after making one and got a bit carried away. Here are a few bows I have made.

These are bow #3 using gingham cotton to match the pinafore 😊

I used hair bobbles for these.

IMG_0526IMG_0506

Made the option #4 using different fabrics, like broderie anglaise and Liberty Tana Lawn. So sweet!

These are all with alligator hairclips except the broderie anglaise ones (I made two). For these I made one with hair bobble and other with hairclip.

IMG_0484IMG_0488

IMG_0643IMG_0690

IMG_0629IMG_0636

For the bow option #5, used swiss cotton dot and adore the vintage look!

This one is also with hairclip.

IMG_0617IMG_0619

For a more relaxed look, made the option #7 in chambray and hair bobble.

IMG_0580IMG_0593

Finally, made the option #9 using a lightweight linen and used hairclip.

IMG_0490IMG_0499

As usual, the pattern includes clear and detailed instructions and even if, like me, this is not your usual project, you can achieve lovely bows to match all those pretty dresses. Also, I think option #4 and 5 works well for grown-ups as well.

This is the perfect project to use scraps or for children to learn sewing. Plus, it is free if you join Jilly Atlanta Facebook Group. 😊 Yes, that is correct, it is free!

 

Go on, join the group if you haven’t yet and have fun.

 

Maria x


A new Recital Shirt

Hello,

Hope you are all managing well through these troubled times.

I confess I am starting to feel a bit overwhelmed with all this situation but I will keep this space dedicated to sewing as I also believe it takes our minds out of negative thoughts and it helps keeping us sane.

A few years ago, I received the most beautiful present from Constança. It might sound silly, but I liked it so much that I was afraid to use it and ruin it, or not use it wisely. Well, it took me years to finally make something out of it!

Constança kindly sent me some of the fabric she used for her son’s Christening gown, gorgeous broderie anglaise and entredeux. The responsibility, right?

Initially I thought about trying to recreate a lovely blouse my daughters had but then I thought it wouldn’t last long, as Children keep growing so fast and I wanted something to last. Finally, a few weeks ago I was looking for a white shirt and couldn’t quite find what I was looking for, so I thought it was about time to use the fabric and broderie anglaise. Boring as it might sound, I like white shirts/blouses and wear them all the time. After all, it goes well with everything.

IMG_9768

So, about the fabric. It is a soft lawn, lovely to work with and to wear. It feels great against the skin. Also, as it is lightweight, the ruffled collar worked beautifully.

IMG_9780

The broderie anglaise is supposed the be used differently. However, I thought it would work well for the sleeve and I honestly think it looks lovely this way. It is a darker shade than the fabric but it doesn’t really bother me.

IMG_9797

Now, one important thing was to decide which pattern to use. I wanted a pattern I trusted and knew I would wear regularly, so I chose the Recital Shirt by Liesl + Co. I have used it previously and I wear that shirt all the time.

IMG_9794-2

As previously, I made a size 0, without changes other than the sleeves. For the sleeves, I did not change much, in fact I only omitted the cuff and add the broderie anglaise instead. First, I thought about adding an inch or two to the sleeve but, in the end, decided not to as I did not want the sleeve too long so that I can easily wear with ¾ sleeved cardigans.

IMG_9795-2

I attached the broderie to the sleeve and made the elastic casing with bias binding. Simple but effective and it is not itchy against my skin.

IMG_9797-2

Summarizing, I absolutely adore this shirt. I am glad I took the time and I am pretty sure I will wear it quite a lot.

Thank you for this lovely gift Constança.

As for you reading this post, stay safe.

Maria x